Does anybody have a procedure for easy rack replacement?

As far as I know it's a hard job and you have to drop the rear of the sub frame.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Im part way through a my 1st resto, i dont need to replace the rack, but it was one of the more anoying things i've had disassemble. I think my minis been prety nice to me so far and just fallen apart, but not the stearing coloumn/rack, although i don't think the steering coloumn would need to be removed.

Good luck.

I keep looking at mine trying to pluck up enough courage to tackle it. I have all the bits needed but just have to get down and dirty

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Not too hard,

Loosen the rack retaining u-bolts (from in the cabin) Remove.

Undo coulmn top mounts, remove column off rack.

Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, (including a slight loosening of the front mounts) removing the top bolts.

Position mini/moke on hoist or acceptable alternative

Remove front wheels.

Position adjustable support under transmission case. (jack with load spreading piece of timber is good)

Loosen and remove rear subframe mounting bolts.

Split tie rods from steering arms,

Remove the passenger's side steering rack boot.

Lower the rear of the subframe about 2 inches

Now there is enough clearance to withdraw the rack out the driver's side.

Insert replacement rack and reverse the procedure to put it al back!

Don't forget to install the u-bolts before doing subframe up. You may need to close them up a little in a vice before they'll fit the holes, as they seem to spring a little wider wwhen out of the car.

Be careful, and read the manual!

Disclaimer bit:
If you don't know what you are doing, call a professional, and get them to do it for you. If you stuff something up, then it's your fault not mine, try some common sense!!

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

do you need to loosen the turret bolts (studs in some)?

Yep, if you mean the top subframe bolts. They go from the 'turrets' of the subframe through the bulkhead crossmember. Remove the nuts (if you have studs) at least, or take the bolts out, cos you need to drop it that inch or two.

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

great sounds like fun - suppose I better get on to it then

Yes , what Matt said basically . From memory your moke had troubles accepting the front subframe in the first place so might help to have a couple of extra bods on standby to lean on it to get it all back in again . As a general overview you're wanting to hinge the front subframe on the two front mounting bolts so the back of the subframe comes away from the firewall .

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it was the top bolts that were the problem - but I have a plan this time around

Now that's a quote that I hope doesn't come back to haunt you ....

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I always have a plan - they usually dont work - but I always have a plan

Plan
1. Stay out of the Casualty ward.
2. Don't bother getting Speedy to help me with getting the bolts back, he was useless last time.
3. Buy a sledge hammer.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

dont put the jack under the sump like i did it doesnt work.....

1. Cant promise anything
2. Yep that was the plan
3. got one

I also have a plan B - chuck the bolts and put studs back in