I've never had this problem before, but the brake lights on my 66 deluxe have stopped working. I was told the other day and I've been turning the lights on and off (but this only works at day). It's got new globes and I was told that there was a switch somewhere, where the contacts may be dead or something...

Can someone tell me how to fix? Cheers.

Phil

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Phil G

The brake light switch is located on the left side of the engine bay, down on the subframe, you can follow the brake line from the 3 way T peice bolted to the firewall, the switch itself has 2 wires connecting to it, you need to disconnect the wires, undo the brake light switch, remove & replace it, then rebleed the brakes.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

Should you check wiring to the lights first before changing the brake switch?
Ie temporarily contact the wires and have someone check the brake lights. Also make sure there isn't another wiring fault at the lights themselves.
KB

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I put in an electrical switch out of the Leyland into my 67 Deluxe after a few people here recommended it.

Had to do a few modifications to the pedal box, but totally worth the time and effort.

Yeah as mentioned above. Before you going opening up your brake circut. Connect the two wires together that go to the brake switch with the IGN on or car running to confirm if the brake lights work. Or put a multimeter on ohms and meausure across the 2 terminals of the brake switch and have someone mash the brake pedal to the floor to confirm the brake switch is working. You may have a crook switch or you may have a wiring issue or something as simple as a connector come loose on the brake switch.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

sounds like a dogey earth maybe

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71255

No it dosnt.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

It's an easy call to make, but you can spend all day chasing grounds that just aren't missing.

Imagine if a sparky came to your house because an electric jug wasn't working, and then spent 4 hours chasing the earth wire back to the curb. You would be standing by the jug going "ummm....mate....did you check the fuse?? "
It just wouldn't do and it's not the fault finding methedology to use..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Place a wire in both ends of the wires going to the brake switch, turn on Ign and place foot on the brake pedel. Lights should light up if they do clean the connections on the brake switch and connect wires back up and retry the pedle again. If it doesn't work it the pedle switch

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Those hydraulic brake light switches now are crap compared to the originals. They don't last, I only got 3 months out of one last year, then 3 weeks out of its replacement.
Best plan is fit a mechanical one to the brake pedal, like a 78 Clubby.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It most likely won't have a pedal switch. Pull the Spade connections on the Hydraulically Operated Stop Light Switch and join them together with a piece of wire and turn on the Ignition. The lights should come on. If they do, you need to replace the Hyd Sw. If they don't it is probably a blown fuse, bad earth or whatever.

Edit: Where is the Hydraulically Operated Stop Light Switch? It is in the engine bay down near the driver side wheel. You'll see the two brake lines connected to it and two electrical connectors in the top of it. It's about the size of 10x5c coins stacked on top of each other. It will be disgustingly dirty, both oily and muddy.

Connect a wire between the two wires that go to the brake light switch on the subframe.

Turn the ignition on and check if the brake lights come on.

If they do come on it is most likely to be the switch that is the cause of the fault, these are a fairly common fault but be aware that the new switches arent as reliable as the old ones.

Or you can test the switch itself by using an Ohmeter to test for continuity through the switch when the brake pedal is depressed. Connect one multimeter lead to one terminal and the other lead to the other terminal. It should give a reading when the pedal is down and be open circuit when the pedal is at the top of its stroke. If it is Open circuit under all conditions the switch is faulty.

If the lights do not work or you get a figure in Ohms from the switch- the fault lies in the circuit. If this is the case inspect the globes intially. Then check all connections etc.

Matt

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clean the connections on the switch..dont just take it out a bit of wet and dry has worked many times for me

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I ditched the hydraulic switches long ago and fitted mechanical ones to the pedal box. Switches can be purchased from any motor or electronics store for around $5. you need to make up a bracket and redirect the two wires from the old switch. A right angle drill attachment helps. About an hours work all up, but well worth it.

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1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)