hey guys

murphys law has struck. its mini muster on sunday and ive snapped wheel stud! ive also managed to strip a second stud on another wheel (probably caused by the morons with a rattle gun)

so i was just going to change over to spaced drums all round and chuck my new wheels on. ive been going allright getting the old drum off and the pads off, but im buggered if i know how to get the old studs out??

do i have to take off that faceplate thing that the studs are in?
times running out and i gotta do this ASAP!

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00' Forester GT

You need to tap the studs through the flange they are mounted on. A good whack on the end of the stud will drive them off their splines. The short ones should fall out fine.
The long ones may need more room to get the studs back through the holes. If you find this to be the case, then you may need to remove the drive flange.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

A good whack on the stud won't do the wheel bearings much good, it will brinell them.
I always take the flanges off, put on top of vice, THEN hit stud with BFH.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What does brinell mean? I tried Googling the word and came up with references to hardness. Is this related?

Brinelling is damage to the bearing. Shock loads will cause the hardened bearing surface to come away.

Never really had to whack that hard to get them out actually, never hard enough to cause brinelling...can't imagine how they would get through rigours of daily driving otherwise.

Tap if you will, or remove the the flange from the hub to replace the studs. The longer ones will cause problems getting them back in in anycase.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

ok i went out there, wacked the studs a few times....no movement, then came in and saw the docs messege...realised 'oh F*** i shouldnt have done that' then went back out to see if i could remove the nut that is holding the flange on.
no go..

ive removed the split pin, and was trying to turn the nut and the other wheel was moving with it (the car is on 2 blocks of wood for my jack to fit under the car so the other wheel is spinning on the block of wood)

how the hell do i get this bastard off!?!
and when i do, is there any bearings or something thats gonna come flying at me?

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00' Forester GT

I wish you guys would invest in some axle stands specialy when you will be pulling hard in these situations.

You need to lock the Brakes. Get some one to sit in the drivers seat and hold the brake down or other wise as I do get a piece of wood long enought to hold the brake down and agaimst the seat or crossmenber.

Please be carefull if you are not using axlestands

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Good fun hey?
To stop the wheels turning i just use a lump of wood wedged into the wheelstuds.
Unless you have tapered bearings nothing should come out except the flange, it can take some persuasion to get it out too. if you have tapered bearings the inner part may come out with the flange (no biggie).
While its apart just check the grease while you're there and re pack if nessecary, i just found out the not so nice way but not the bad way.

Have fun!!!

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LR nut is LEFT HAND THREAD>
Only one on da car...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Be careful wedging the wheel using wood or something else between the studs, I've done that in the past and bent studs for my trouble

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

but he's replacing them

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

allright i went and got some axle stands for the car (been meaning to buy em )

i tried to wedge the studs with a bit of wood.
then i tried a bit of wd40 in the mix.....

all i have managed to do is create several scuffed knuckles and produce most of the swearwords in the english language

any ideas of how to get this nut off?

edit: or is it just i need to get some more muscle?

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00' Forester GT

I know this isn't going to help my reputation, but i couldn't resist.

Drum studs?

TURN HUB NUT TO THE RIGHT TO UNDO... it's LH thread as I said here hours ago...^^^

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Don't wedge a lump of wood between the studs, that is just sillyness.

To undo the hub nuts I leave the wheels on the car and the car on the ground. I stick a socket on the nut and use a breaker bar on the socket (not a ratchet as it can let go) then I stomp on the breaker bar. (or you can grab a hammer and give the breaker bar a hit with the hammer.)

If you give the bar one good hit it will undo the nut before the wheel even thinks of turning. It is just like using a rattle gun only cheaper.

Once the nut is loose you can jack up the car and stick it on stands and remove the hub.