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pulling engine out
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=45343		 Page 1 of 3
Author:  Leighton [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:10 pm ]
Post subject:  pulling engine out
hey fellas, i have something to confess... i have just been unfaithful and was on another mini forum :( ... anyways im going to pull my 998 out soon. and need to know what to do :D and need to know what some things are and LOOK like :D

heres a list i found on another forum

Checklist:

trolley Jack, pair axle stands. Have a load of plastic bags handy, and bag up &
label each things that comes off - if you dont recognise the part, label it!
Makes refitting sooo much easier.

- disconnect/remove battery
- remove bonnet - held on with 4x nuts, 7/16" heads
- remove the split pins from the eng of the CV's on the front, and
loosen the hub nuts- do this now, as it's near impossible with the car in
the air! You may need the help of an assistant to hold the brake
pedal down while doing this.
- Loosen the wheel nuts
- Jack the car up, and support on axle stands
- remove the roadwheels
- drain the engine oil
- drain the coolant and remove the radiator
- disconnect the fuel line and choke & accelerator cables from the carb
- remove the exhaust, inlet/exhaust manifold, and carb.
- If you have an inline brake servo fitted, undo the 3 retaining bolts
and push to one side in the engine bay
- disconnect the wiring to the starter motor and then remove motor
- disconnect & remove alternator
- disconnect the wiring for the oil pressure light and temp light
- disconnect the top engine steady bar
- disconnect the bottom engine steady bar
- disconnect any engine to body earth straps
- if you have disc brakes, remove the calipers, but leave the hoses
connected.
- working under the car, remove the lock bolt and roll pin holding the
gear linkage into the gearbox.
- working inside the car, undo the screws and nuts holding the gear
linkage in place, and remove by dropping under the car.
- split all 3 balljoints on each hub, and drop the top joint out from the top
arm - leave the botom one in for now.
- working under the car, and preferably with the correct tool, split the
pot joints from the gearbox. When free, remove the hubs from the bottom
arms and ease away from the box, leaving the drive shaft complete.
- working from each side under the arch, remove the 2 nuts/bolds on the
engine mounts
- that's it - the engine is now free - so get a sling/rope/chain round it and get it out!

In true Haynes fashion....refitting is reverse of removal....


so thats the list. what are the items underlined? what do they do? and what do they look like?

cheers leighton
Author:  ryan [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would do a few things differently. First of all, disconnect and remove carbs alternator, coil etc before putting it up on stands. I do this because i prefer to work on the car when it is safe and sound on the ground as much as possible.

Secondly i wouldn't remove the radiator, just pull it out with the motor.

the only other thing is, if you don;t have ball joints than the process is different. But from memory you do so, i guess you are on track.

In terms of lifting the motor out, it requires a little bit of manouvoring, so it helps to have two people. Also i don;t use a sling, rather just some chain bolted to the head studs, or make up a bracket, (there is a design on here somewhere).

Ryan
Author:  Leighton [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
yeah that would be alot safer...

so the head studs will with stand the weight of the engine??


leighton
Author:  ryan [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm trying to find photos of the bracket for you
here is a pic of it on doogies engine, but hard to see
Image

Ryan
Author:  Leighton [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
yeah it is hard to see. where does it attach to.

cheers
Author:  Hanra [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Middle front head stud
Author:  1310/71 [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Search the how to's for "Engine lifting bracket" - there is one made simply from angle iron and a d shackle which supports the weight across two head studs. Many have used this design and it works.
Author:  doogie [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
ryan wrote:
I would do a few things differently. First of all, disconnect and remove carbs alternator, coil etc before putting it up on stands. I do this because i prefer to work on the car when it is safe and sound on the ground as much as possible.

Secondly i wouldn't remove the radiator, just pull it out with the motor.

the only other thing is, if you don;t have ball joints than the process is different. But from memory you do so, i guess you are on track.

In terms of lifting the motor out, it requires a little bit of manouvoring, so it helps to have two people. Also i don;t use a sling, rather just some chain bolted to the head studs, or make up a bracket, (there is a design on here somewhere).

Ryan


In my opinion removing all that stuff is not needed, take the neck of the carby, that will clear the scuttle panel, alternator does'nt foul anything on the way out, as i said just my opinion.

Doogie
Author:  Mick [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
A nice balance point is when the contact point of the hook is over the dipstick hole (so a little out from in between the studs). The engine balances just perfectly and allows the engine to come out with the radiator still attached, the oil filter on and still clear the differential housing at the back of the engine bay.
Author:  IndigoBlueCooperS [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
You can remove (or replace) the engine with all the bits attached including the carbs, alternator and radiator, or removed. If the bits are attached the job is a lot quicker. If you remove all the bits there is less chance of scratching the paint. Thus, on a new pearl pink paint job I removed all the bits and took the time. Proper engine lifting bracket makes it easy as the engine is dropped in at the correnct angle, critical if you have a remote change gear box. (This engine is a rod change, and can thus be dropped straight down, more or less)
The paper on the front stops the chains from marking the paint, or chrome work if it is in place.
The orange rope in the first photo is holding up the extractors, as this has a fully welded LCB exhaust system.

Image

Image
Author:  Flute [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Is there a mini forum other than ausmini? If so, I don't want to know about it. It is hard enough reading all the stuff on here!
Author:  ryan [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, doogie i would normally agree with you, however in leigtons case he will be pulling the motor down for a rebuild anyway, so he is going to have to take it off anyway. Also depending on the type of alternator, it wont always clear (in a round nose).
Ryan
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
1310/71 wrote:
Search the how to's for "Engine lifting bracket" - there is one made simply from angle iron and a d shackle which supports the weight across two head studs. Many have used this design and it works.

Here it is http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... ng+bracket
I have made one of these and used it about a dozen times.
Great piece of gear as the motor sits at a good angle.
Cheers Pete
Author:  Leighton [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
ok thanks for all that..... whats the difference between a remote nad rod change gearbox??? ive got a '75 clubby. cheers leighton
Author:  Leighton [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Here it is http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... ng+bracket
I have made one of these and used it about a dozen times.
Great piece of gear as the motor sits at a good angle.
Cheers Pete


yeah i had a look at that... looks like a nice simple design.
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