Hey Guys,

I've had a search (on here) and a read through my workshop manual and am getting conflicting information.

As some of you may have heard at the muster my timing chain is buggered (yes pun intended - it was noisy even before the new head got put on but worse now because of the double valve springs).

After reading some threads on here people say you have to degree the cam back in (I don't particularly want to take the engine out) but my workshop manual says to adjust #1 rocker to 0.019" and turn engine until that valve is just about to open, then check that 5°BTDC is showing on the flywheel and that should be inline with the TDC mark on the clutch cover (which I don't quite get TBH, a TDC mark on the clutch cover??? where is that - is it a line that I just have never noticed on the cover itself, rather than on the flywheel???).

Can I get away with just aligning the dots (so they are facing each other)? It's not a race motor but I don't really want the valves fully open when the piston is at TDC either

That's about all it says. Also, I know that I will need to counter sink two bolts into the block to fit a double row timing chain, is this easy enough to do with a right angle drill attachment while the engine is still in the car?

My car is hemereging oil pretty badly from the timing cover anyways so I thought I may as well kill two birds with one stone

Cheers, Nick

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Generally refers to the little pointer on the cover that lines up with the actual marks on the flywheel


Yes, lining the dots is pretty close. You won't necessarily win a dyno comp, I can lend you my dial gauge and magnetic base if you want them next Tuesday!



You can do it, but don't. I did this and then the engine had no oil pressure a few thousand miles later. (orig 998) Yes I was careful, thought i had blocked all oil passages, and cleaned all the swarf. Coincidence?

If you have to do these things, pull it out IMHO, and do it right!

Cheers

matt[/quote]

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

You've scared me matt I don't like the idea of no oil pressure I must admit I was already a bit concerned about swarf but I figure there's no reason putting another simplex in there because no doubt with double valve spring's it'll be stretched again in no time.

I might just leave it and pay my mech to do it - that way it'll be done right the first time



Thanks for that Matt, I guess I've just never noticed before while I've been busy concentrating on what the flywheel says as my timing light flashes

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Just buy a Rollmaster Mini set up and advance it slightly by using the slotted keyways in the crank gear. Well made double rowchain, l/w but strong steel gears, relatively inexpensive and available from any Aussie speed shop (I bought mine from Outlaw).

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Cover the area with a liberal amount of grease and drill though it - should catch the swarf

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

or just take the plate off to countersink it, you will be most of the way there when you take all the other stuff off anyway.

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Steve

I agree with taking the plate off.

You could use a nice strong magnet next to the hole as well

I was gonna say take the plate off too - and just line up the dots.....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

As others have said 1018, take the plate off counter sink the holes, line the dots up, use a steel ruler or steel straight edge to make sure the dots line up through the centre of the cam and crank shaft and put it back together.........
or you could pull the engine out and get the cam reground, a new set of lifters so as to utilize the over bore and your new head a little better
I'd then reccomend you pull the engine out so as to dial in the cam and crank abit more accurately
If you are going to do it 1018, I recommend you use "Three bond" sealant (rusty red colour) ive found it to be the best and you dont have to use heaps for it to work well, just put a nice even coat of it on the gasket or surface but you do have to put the gasket on pretty much straight away as its quite quick to start cureing.
That gasket will never leak again in you use this

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

OK, I've never done this before (but I've done clutches, water pumps etc so I'm not totally stoopid) so just bear with my following stupid question:

To remove the plate once I take off the timing cover, oil slinger, timing chain & gears etc - what am I looking for? Is it just a few bolts that I have to undo and the whole thing will pull away from the block / g'box? If I do this it won't upset anything once I pull it apart i.e. won't upset the cam bearing on that end etc (bearing isn't on the plate though is it?))?

Thanks guys, I can't see where it says anything in my workshop manual about it. I have decided I'm going to pull the plate off and counter sink that way, just so there is very little chance to contaminate the sump with swarf.

Thanks for your help thus far guys, I like to fully find out about a job BEFORE I start doing it.



BALLISTIC, it's my daily shitter so I don't want it off the road for too long. If getting the plate off is pretty simple I'll be sure to do it myself. Thanks for the tip on the sealant, once I put it back together I don't particularly want an oil leak from there again!

Also, one last question (for this post ) how long should it take me provided I don't run into problems (and have all the necessary tools etc), if I have never done this before?

Cheers, Nick

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

The backing plate is held on with some bolts and also via the camshaft thrust plate which is held in place with three bolts. When you remove the thrust plate, make sure you put it back on the same way round as it is sided. Also check it for wear and replace if necessary. Camshaft will not be disturbed when you remove the backing plate.

Thanks for that Anto

So just to make sure, the camshaft shouldn't spin on me once it doesn't have a chain on it even if it is getting pushed on because of the valve springs (neither of my manuals mention anything about loosening off the rocker gear etc).

Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

and seals and gaskets

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

And seals and gaskets etc Thanks Wombat.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina