ausmini :: View topic - Changing Timing Chain

Hey Guys,

I've had a search (on here) and a read through my workshop manual and am getting conflicting information.

As some of you may have heard at the muster my timing chain is buggered (yes pun intended - it was noisy even before the new head got put on but worse now because of the double valve springs).

After reading some threads on here people say you have to degree the cam back in (I don't particularly want to take the engine out) but my workshop manual says to adjust #1 rocker to 0.019" and turn engine until that valve is just about to open, then check that 5°BTDC is showing on the flywheel and that should be inline with the TDC mark on the clutch cover (which I don't quite get TBH, a TDC mark on the clutch cover??? where is that - is it a line that I just have never noticed on the cover itself, rather than on the flywheel???).

Can I get away with just aligning the dots (so they are facing each other)? It's not a race motor but I don't really want the valves fully open when the piston is at TDC either :lol:

That's about all it says. Also, I know that I will need to counter sink two bolts into the block to fit a double row timing chain, is this easy enough to do with a right angle drill attachment while the engine is still in the car?

Generally refers to the little pointer on the cover that lines up with the actual marks on the flywheel :wink:

I must admit I was already a bit concerned about swarf

I was gonna say take the plate off too - and just line up the dots.....

or you could pull the engine out and get the cam reground, a new set of lifters so as to utilize the over bore and your new head a little better :wink:

I'd then reccomend you pull the engine out so as to dial in the cam and crank abit more accurately

If you are going to do it 1018, I recommend you use "Three bond" sealant (rusty red colour) ive found it to be the best and you dont have to use heaps for it to work well, just put a nice even coat of it on the gasket or surface but you do have to put the gasket on pretty much straight away as its quite quick to start cureing.
That gasket will never leak again in you use this

Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger :wink:

1018cc wrote:

Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger :wink:

and seals and gaskets

Author:	1018cc [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 4:40 pm ]
Post subject:	Changing Timing Chain - conflicting information
Hey Guys, I've had a search (on here) and a read through my workshop manual and am getting conflicting information. As some of you may have heard at the muster my timing chain is buggered (yes pun intended - it was noisy even before the new head got put on but worse now because of the double valve springs). After reading some threads on here people say you have to degree the cam back in (I don't particularly want to take the engine out) but my workshop manual says to adjust #1 rocker to 0.019" and turn engine until that valve is just about to open, then check that 5°BTDC is showing on the flywheel and that should be inline with the TDC mark on the clutch cover (which I don't quite get TBH, a TDC mark on the clutch cover??? where is that - is it a line that I just have never noticed on the cover itself, rather than on the flywheel???). Can I get away with just aligning the dots (so they are facing each other)? It's not a race motor but I don't really want the valves fully open when the piston is at TDC either That's about all it says. Also, I know that I will need to counter sink two bolts into the block to fit a double row timing chain, is this easy enough to do with a right angle drill attachment while the engine is still in the car? My car is hemereging oil pretty badly from the timing cover anyways so I thought I may as well kill two birds with one stone Cheers, Nick

Author:	Matt68 [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:22 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Changing Timing Chain - conflicting information
1018cc wrote: Hey Guys, I've had a search (on here) and a read through my workshop manual and am getting conflicting information. As some of you may have heard at the muster my timing chain is buggered (yes pun intended - it was noisy even before the new head got put on but worse now because of the double valve springs). After reading some threads on here people say you have to degree the cam back in (I don't particularly want to take the engine out) but my workshop manual says to adjust #1 rocker to 0.019" and turn engine until that valve is just about to open, then check that 5°BTDC is showing on the flywheel and that should be inline with the TDC mark on the clutch cover (which I don't quite get TBH, a TDC mark on the clutch cover??? where is that - is it a line that I just have never noticed on the cover itself, rather than on the flywheel???). Generally refers to the little pointer on the cover that lines up with the actual marks on the flywheel 1018cc wrote: Can I get away with just aligning the dots (so they are facing each other)? It's not a race motor but I don't really want the valves fully open when the piston is at TDC either Yes, lining the dots is pretty close. You won't necessarily win a dyno comp, I can lend you my dial gauge and magnetic base if you want them next Tuesday! 1018cc wrote: That's about all it says. Also, I know that I will need to counter sink two bolts into the block to fit a double row timing chain, is this easy enough to do with a right angle drill attachment while the engine is still in the car? You can do it, but don't. I did this and then the engine had no oil pressure a few thousand miles later. (orig 998) Yes I was careful, thought i had blocked all oil passages, and cleaned all the swarf. Coincidence? If you have to do these things, pull it out IMHO, and do it right! Cheers matt[/quote]

Author:	1018cc [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:34 pm ]
Post subject:
You've scared me matt I don't like the idea of no oil pressure I must admit I was already a bit concerned about swarf but I figure there's no reason putting another simplex in there because no doubt with double valve spring's it'll be stretched again in no time. I might just leave it and pay my mech to do it - that way it'll be done right the first time Matt68 wrote: Generally refers to the little pointer on the cover that lines up with the actual marks on the flywheel Thanks for that Matt, I guess I've just never noticed before while I've been busy concentrating on what the flywheel says as my timing light flashes

Author:	slide [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:34 pm ]
Post subject:
Just buy a Rollmaster Mini set up and advance it slightly by using the slotted keyways in the crank gear. Well made double rowchain, l/w but strong steel gears, relatively inexpensive and available from any Aussie speed shop (I bought mine from Outlaw).

Author:	Wombat [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:40 pm ]
Post subject:
1018cc wrote: I must admit I was already a bit concerned about swarf Cover the area with a liberal amount of grease and drill though it - should catch the swarf

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Changing Timing Chain - conflicting information https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=45428	Page 1 of 2

Author:	justminis [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:45 pm ]
Post subject:
or just take the plate off to countersink it, you will be most of the way there when you take all the other stuff off anyway.

Author:	Morris 1100 [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:52 pm ]
Post subject:
I agree with taking the plate off.

Author:	albino235 [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:11 pm ]
Post subject:
You could use a nice strong magnet next to the hole as well

Author:	simon k [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:17 pm ]
Post subject:
I was gonna say take the plate off too - and just line up the dots.....

Author:	BALLISTIC [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:38 am ]
Post subject:
simon k wrote: I was gonna say take the plate off too - and just line up the dots..... As others have said 1018, take the plate off counter sink the holes, line the dots up, use a steel ruler or steel straight edge to make sure the dots line up through the centre of the cam and crank shaft and put it back together......... or you could pull the engine out and get the cam reground, a new set of lifters so as to utilize the over bore and your new head a little better I'd then reccomend you pull the engine out so as to dial in the cam and crank abit more accurately If you are going to do it 1018, I recommend you use "Three bond" sealant (rusty red colour) ive found it to be the best and you dont have to use heaps for it to work well, just put a nice even coat of it on the gasket or surface but you do have to put the gasket on pretty much straight away as its quite quick to start cureing. That gasket will never leak again in you use this

Author:	1018cc [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:49 am ]
Post subject:
OK, I've never done this before (but I've done clutches, water pumps etc so I'm not totally stoopid) so just bear with my following stupid question: To remove the plate once I take off the timing cover, oil slinger, timing chain & gears etc - what am I looking for? Is it just a few bolts that I have to undo and the whole thing will pull away from the block / g'box? If I do this it won't upset anything once I pull it apart i.e. won't upset the cam bearing on that end etc (bearing isn't on the plate though is it?))? Thanks guys, I can't see where it says anything in my workshop manual about it. I have decided I'm going to pull the plate off and counter sink that way, just so there is very little chance to contaminate the sump with swarf. Thanks for your help thus far guys, I like to fully find out about a job BEFORE I start doing it. BALLISTIC wrote: or you could pull the engine out and get the cam reground, a new set of lifters so as to utilize the over bore and your new head a little better I'd then reccomend you pull the engine out so as to dial in the cam and crank abit more accurately If you are going to do it 1018, I recommend you use "Three bond" sealant (rusty red colour) ive found it to be the best and you dont have to use heaps for it to work well, just put a nice even coat of it on the gasket or surface but you do have to put the gasket on pretty much straight away as its quite quick to start cureing. That gasket will never leak again in you use this BALLISTIC, it's my daily shitter so I don't want it off the road for too long. If getting the plate off is pretty simple I'll be sure to do it myself. Thanks for the tip on the sealant, once I put it back together I don't particularly want an oil leak from there again! Also, one last question (for this post ) how long should it take me provided I don't run into problems (and have all the necessary tools etc), if I have never done this before? Cheers, Nick

Author:	Anto [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:36 pm ]
Post subject:
The backing plate is held on with some bolts and also via the camshaft thrust plate which is held in place with three bolts. When you remove the thrust plate, make sure you put it back on the same way round as it is sided. Also check it for wear and replace if necessary. Camshaft will not be disturbed when you remove the backing plate.

Author:	1018cc [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:56 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks for that Anto So just to make sure, the camshaft shouldn't spin on me once it doesn't have a chain on it even if it is getting pushed on because of the valve springs (neither of my manuals mention anything about loosening off the rocker gear etc). Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger

Author:	Wombat [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:02 pm ]
Post subject:
1018cc wrote: Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger and seals and gaskets

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Author:	1018cc [ Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:06 pm ]
Post subject:
Wombat wrote: 1018cc wrote: Almost ready to go, I went and bought myself a 1 5/16 socket today, now just need the gears, chain and a new slinger and seals and gaskets And seals and gaskets etc Thanks Wombat.