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Timinig Question
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46809		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Timinig Question
I am running a 998 A+ and it runs warm to hot (85c - 95c) all the time.
If the timing is advanced it will run hot right?
What if the timing is retarded, will it run hot as well?
The book states to run it at 8 deg +0 -2 BTDC at 1500 rpm.
I have it at 8 so should I try 6?
Cheers Pete
Author:  albino235 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
The distributor is not like the temperature knob on an oven :lol:

If your engine is running hot then treat the cooling system don't go messing around with your timing or you will damage something.

The only reason to retard the timing from 8 degrees would be if it is pinging. Generally you try to run as high as possible without pinging, but of course its more complex than that.
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have changed radiators and flushed the cooling system.
The fuel mixter is good if not a bit rich.
It also runs on a little when it gets up around the 90-95 mark.
So the only thing left is the timing yeh?
Cheers Pete
Author:  1018cc [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
How do you know that the radiator you changed to is good?
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sir Spamalot wrote:
How do you know that the radiator you changed to is good?

Just been recoed
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you retard the timing much it fires late, then the stuff is still burning like hell when the exhaust valve opens, so much of that extra heat gets into the cooling water via the exhaust ports.

FWIW my 1360 (125+HP) runs a stocko recoed Deluxe radiator, and never gets hot.
Mind you the timing this one needs is miles more advanced than most A series due to the funny head shape. It's hardly "retarded". :lol:
Author:  9YaTaH [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Thermo
Check when your thermostat is opening :idea:
Author:  albino235 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thermostat? Water pump? Hoses?
All I am saying is that you need to treat the problem not the symptoms and maybe it needs a thorough look at the problem. I just don't see why you should need to retard the timing below stock to keep it cool, especially when it is a standard engine...
If it was pinging or a modified beast of an engine I would understand.
Author:  1018cc [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Are you running a water shield in the front of the car to keep water out? Could it be that something along those lines is keeping air flow out of the engine bay while you are moving along?
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
How do you know it is running hot? Check the gauge.
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 7:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Morris 1100 wrote:
How do you know it is running hot? Check the gauge.

I have two gauges, the normal one that runs in the head and a mechanical one that runs from the thermostat housing, and they both run hot.
albino235 wrote:
Thermostat? Water pump? Hoses?
All I am saying is that you need to treat the problem not the symptoms and maybe it needs a thorough look at the problem.

Have checked the thermostat and that is fine, opens at 74c. Also checked the hoses and they are not collapsing at all.
Has been running like this since I bought it but now that the temperature during the day is getting hotter so is the coolant.

Also what causes running on?

Cheers Pete
Author:  BALLISTIC [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
deluxe_68 wrote:
Also what causes running on?
Cheers Pete


Normally timing, if its a stock 998 i'd run the timing at 5 deg BTDC after the valve clearances have been done and the points gap (if you have points that is) and run the idle at about 1000rpm.

Have you checked for water in the coolant, oil in the water, coolant leaks from the engine, the head gasket in anyway eg: comp test, cooling system pressure test, etc, etc......??

Im not 100% sure but does your engine have a coolant drain at the back of the block on the drivers side almost where the gearbox meets the block?? On the A-series engines there is a 7/16 or 1/2 head copper plug and when you take this out and coolant doesn't drain you use a drill bit (by hand) to get the build up of crap out and this is usually a small indication that the water galleries in ther block are being restricted causing the engine to overheat. (Please note that this is from personal experience of vehicles i have worked on in the past)

Hope this info is of some use
Good luck hope its simple to rectify
Author:  9YaTaH [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Head?
When was the last time the head was off :?: Could be all coked up with hot spots :idea:

Ummm do you have the pressure cap type of filler neck on your rad??
Author:  EST-071 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
No oil in water or water in oil or any water leaks, does not use water at all.
Doesn't have a drain at the back of the block but when I flushed the coolant it was pretty clean.
Have not done a comp test or had the head off yet, was going to do that this week some time and have a look. Will change the rocker shaft at the same time as it has a bit of movement in it.
Has the correct cap on the radiator.
Will try the timing set at 5 deg and see what happens.
Thanks for the help will keep you posted.
Cheers Pete
Author:  albino235 [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Running on is also caused dieseling because something (other than a spark, due to ignition off) is causing the fuel to ignite. It could be spark plugs, hot spots on the head, etc.
What colour are your plugs?

Do you loose a lot of coolant? Also do you have an overflow tank? Have you tried a new radiator cap?
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