broken down at side of road in BNE peak hour traffic just now. waiting for faithful racq to tow me home.

lost all 'pressure' in my clutch pedal. went to the floor reasonably quickly. there was no slipping of the clutch and the clutch fluid resivoir is full of fluid. pumping the clutch does very little. i was pumping hard for about 90secs and even then had to crunch it into 1st gear and limp to a side street.

for those of you with more mechanical knowledge than I, do you have any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

cluch slave or cluch hydraulic cylinder

Bigjobs,,, you might have broken the ball off the bottom of the clutch arm,,, you may have lost the clevis pin from the clutch master cyl push rod,,, it could be the hydraulic system fail & the rubber cups/seal inside the cyls have given up & not playing the game anymore,,, it could also be the tin hat inside the clutch cover has broken,,,

there are quite a few possibilities for your situation

give me a bell if you like cause i may be able to shoot out to help you , depending on where you are of course

0407 135 656
Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I reckon you have had the clevis pin come astray. Same thing happened to me on the way to MDU last time - I just matched the revs and got tot he Maccas outside the ;eagues club. They do shear sometimes but there has to be a helluva lot of wear. I have done 2 - one sheared as it was a cheap soft one and the other I lost the split pin...more of a piss off than anything else.

Pray to God you have small hands!!

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

or maybe just a pair of long nosed pliers

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

My vote is for the long nose pliers, last time I had to replace the Clevis Pin, , I replaced the split pin with an R Pin, much easier to install and line up, and you don't have to bloody try and split it to secure, just 1 push and its In...LOL...

OH and 1 more thing, I tool the drivers seat out and layed on my back on the floor, it was more comfortable and easier to reach.

Well I would have used long nosed pliers if I had them!!!

Ditto for the pulling the seat out too - apart from the brackets digging into my ribs...

Be wary of the R-clip - if it goes upright where the open part of the pin is facing up it could get popped out by hitting a stray wire/cable/felt/anything that is stuck up there when you push the clutch in...lol

More of a hindrance than anyhting else though...my hands are very small so I can squeeze them up into the space and manipulate the pin manually - gets the crap scratched out of it though but it gets the job done(pretty good at getting those screws out of the radiator cowling...lol)

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

i never found removing/replacing clevis pins and r-clips difficult.. remove seat, long nose pliers, 1 minute job really!

i hope it's something as easy as this for you this time!

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

is any clutch fluid leaking from under your master near the pedal box or from your slave? if u pump it up does it slowly fade?

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Enjoy Chris

thanks for all the replies.

where is this clevis pin located so i can have a look at it.

when i pump the clutch there is no recovery in pedal pressure at all. nothing seemed to be leaking at the time of breakdown. have not seen the car for the past 3 days so will have a look at garage floor when i get home tonight.

To make this simple and so that you don't end up chasing hard to find things.....
Get someone else to press the clutch pedal while you watch under the bonnet.
See if...
1) The clutch arm moves.
2) The throwout carrier moves. (this is the bit poking out of the middle of the clutch housing with the two big nuts on it)

Do this and report back.

Put your hand on the top of the clutch pedal and then follow it back to where is goes through the firewall and you will see and feel a pin about 1/2 inch in diametre that goes through both sides of the clutch pedal, and its the clevis pin that connects the top of the clutch pedal to the arm that goes through the firewall.

It makes sence to me...?????????

There are three clevis pins that can fall out.

My bottom clutch arm one would need to defy gravity to fall out, even though it has no split pin in. So far, so good (15 years and counting)...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.