So I got my por 15 during the week and have spent the weekend dismantling my front and rear subframes cleaning and then giving them a lick of paint. They do look a whole lot better than the chassis black that was on them. Brush marks are a little problem but the self levelling effect got rid of most of them. I will give it another coat next weekend and hope that clears this up. My girlfriend was a great help in laying down the paint. Thanks Paula! Will get some photo's up of my build one of these days.

Thankfully Mick warned me not to get this stuff on me as it takes a week to get it off. I still managed to get a bit of paint on my hands but not to much.

One annoying but humorous thing i did was when dismantling the front suspension I didnt undo the castle nut on the end of the drive shaft until after I had removed the whole hub in one piece. Do you think I can get enough leverage to get the thing off now?? damn thing just keeps rolling around. I even (carefully not to damage the disk) put it in a vice and still no avail. I might hit it with a spot of heat to see if that helps next weekend. Any other advice would be appreciated.

D

Put a socket and a bar on the nut (or a big spanner) and hit the bar with a hammer up close to the socket in the undoing direction.
You are not after leverage, you are after a shock. A couple of hits with a hammer and it will start to undo.

Or you could borrow a rattle gun.

Maybe if you still have the wheel studs in position, use a crow bar between opposite wheel studs?
Good luck

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1967 Morris Mini Deluxe
1927 Austin 7

Don't put a bar between the studs.
It can bend them, it can burr the threads and it will possibly crack them for a future failure.

Hey,
Yeah I Tried hitting it sharply with a hammer. I had it in a vice but it just wriggled out. I will try again next weekend.

I thought about the crowbar angle but thought better of it.

At least now I know its a l/h thread not like on the rear subframe!!

Ummm, The CV joints are right hand thread.

the castle nut in the centre of the rotor Are you sure its right hand thread? I looked at that thing for ages and swear its lh. The rear is lh on one side also.
Well I tried in both directions anyway as i heard that tightening a little can break the hold a bit and make it easier to undo

Try bolting an old wheel with tyre back onto the Hub. You should be able to hold the wheel one way or another while you undo the nut.

Dave

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thats a great Idea. Will try that next week. I did think that might work but it was after I had left for home ( 2hrs away from the car). I always seem to think of things I should have done in that time Thanks sitnlow

the front is R/H thread both sides, as in you turn to the right to do up

hey,

Nah you are dead right. Thinking about it it is a RH Thread. I must have been tired or on crack or something last night. I was turning it the right just thinking the wrong way

So why does the rear have a lh and a rh thread on the different sides bvut the front does not? Is it because the front spins with where the rear is stationary? Or something....

D

The theory is that the LH rear nut would tend to undo, if a bearing spun it.. But that's why it has a split pin, doesn't it..
It would be handy if BMC had followed convention, and put a V groove around that nut to signify it is LH thread.

The front nut/CV/drive flange etc is a rotating assembly, unlike the rear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.