Hey,

What kinda of price have people payed to have an engine built by GR? I'll have between $3000 & $5000, would this from peoples experiences get me a decent engine considering that the money is for the whole lot (Gearbox, block, etc.)

Thanks
Blake

Every engine build will be different so therefore would cost a different amount.

I think you are better off to call him and get a quote on what you want.

Matt

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Call him and tell him what you want and your budget and he'll steer you in the right direction. For that money it will be a pretty mild rebuild. You can spend $1500 on the box alone which doesn't leave a lot for the motor.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Yeah ,,, i rebuilt a motor for a fella a little while ago, he wanted it set up for a supercharger,,, but the only thing we used out of the original short motor was the block,,, all the insides were crap, the crank was stuffed, the rods were rooted, cam & lifters are replaced usually anyway etc etc etc & the engine he gave me to do only had early single row timing gears & chain... so we had to source all that stuff which obviously adds a huge amount to the cost of the re-build,,, luckilly his gearbox wasn`t so bad but the total cost of the whole power unit still cam to $6500 & that included a very very big port/valve cyl head which i already had done sitting here waiting for some one wanting an engine just like this

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I paid him $1250 for a short motor rebuild but I provided 95-98% of the new parts and he had already ground the RE13 cam, basically what I paid covered 0.100" oversize flat top pistons - rebore and fitting of said pistons, decking the block flat, clean and him assembling the short motor and adding any minor bits I did not supply. I'd have to did out the receipts to tell what it would have cost with parts but I guestimate another $1200-$1500. Thats just the block not counting the gearbox

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Would a set of extractors of an 1100cc be alrite for a 1275cc thats had abit of work done to it? And which would be better for a slitly worked 1275cc, Twin 1 1/2 SU's or single 1 3/4 SU? Im eventually going with a weber but until then.

Yes the 1100 extractors will work on a 1275, I have an LCB on 2 1275 motors and a 3-1 Perry freeflow on the other, they all work fine.

A single 1-3/4 on a Russell Engineering manifold will kill twin 1-1/2s.
A Weber or Dellorto 45 will only beat it up high.
Here's the dyno plot from my 1412 stroker- (RE13 cam, 1.5 rockers, a bit of head work), note the torque difference....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mmmmm very interesting thanks for that info. I will think about this one then.
Also is there anyone here in Canberra that is willing to come and give me a hand in there enar future to put my new engine in? There will be a case in!!!

Thanks Blake

Have you tried them both on the road? I would think the SU with that huge torque hit right where you need it would be a sensation in those situations where strong acceleration is called for (like over taking semis among other things).

For the 0.4 hp difference I think I'd rather have the greater torque output as it's this that really propels the car forwards and gets it moving off the line and out of slow corners.

Doesn't sound quite as nice though as a twin choke....

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Have you tried them both on the road? I would think the SU with that huge torque hit right where you need it would be a sensation in those situations where strong acceleration is called for (like over taking semis among other things).

For the 0.4 hp difference I think I'd rather have the greater torque output as it's this that really propels the car forwards and gets it moving off the line and out of slow corners.

Doesn't sound quite as nice though as a twin choke....

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

1412 stroker motor is still sitting here, waiting for me to do the van body for the missus.
Yes it will get the SU, it's a shopping trolley. I just threw my 1360's 45 Dellorto setup on there, for a comparo.
It's about what I expected.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.