Is it advisable to use a thread lock compound like Loctite on engine block studs? Saw a product called "Stud Lock" the other day and it got me thinking.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Which engine block studs? You mean the ones that hold the head down?
or something else?

I dont use loctite on the head studs, but do on rod bolts, flywheel, diff, etc etc etc.

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Yep - those ones - and is it OK to re-use old ones or better to use new ones?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

You dont thread lock the head studs... you torque them up and thats it.
IMHO - new studs are best - and studs - not bolts!

I have ARP studs in mine... not $$ for them.

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

loctite works as a lubricant until it sets, so when doing up studs and nuts, it stops them from catching, and then locks them up - I've used it on head studs in the past, but I don't think I did last time I put them in the block

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I think Jess uses LOCK STUD when she gets a man in her bed, so they can;t get away

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i would assume you stay away from loctite on head studs as its usually ideal to retorque them once the engine has been run in, and that would be a bit of a chore with them loctited. taking the head off would be a bit of an effort with loctite

I dont need to force them to stay Brett! Usually they won't leave when i want them to

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Not talking about the nuts - talking about the end that is in the block

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I think that with any of the highly torqued up bolts, like the head studs, rod bolts, main cap bolts, etc that it is the stretch of the bolt and friction that holds them there.
All in all, no lock tight is not needed. An example, all arp high tensile bolts come with grease, if it was needed they would come with lock tight

Sometimes in some situations a stud will keep coming loose. When that happens you can use Loctite Stud Lock. You don't need it on every stud, just the ones that keep undoing.

I can't think of any on a Mini that would require Stud Lock but I used to use a lot of it on my trucks.

Loctite on the bottom of the head studs will just make them hard to get out. it serves no other purpose in this case.
I agree with Albino, no need, except for the cam nut, crank pulley bolt, and flywheel bolt. These get Loctite 262, and NO friggin useless cheapo rubbish locktabs.
I had 1 flywheel come loose lately, from 5 years ago when I didn't follow my <edit> current advice.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and here I was mistakenly thinking you had come out

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1964 Cooper UK 970 S 'CZ 4289'

Actually thinking about it the studs that used to come loose were ones that held things like a bracket on a motor and there was a rocking force on the bracket which would overcome the clamping force.

so that was the trouble with Barney ?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?