Ok, a mini parts supplier has stuck me with their shitty arse too thick engine mounts.

Now I have got one side bolted in, but the othere end refuses to settle into the subframe. I can't get near enough to lever it in with a screwdriver.

Is there any tricks anyone else has worked out to deal with these substandard useless engine mounts which certain suppliers continue to dole out despite knowing full well they are useless pieces of crap?

I mean really

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Reuse one of your old ones or buy one normal one and use it with one thick one . Not much help otherwise unless you send them back ad ask for a refund as they don't fit .

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who'd you buy them off? go on, tell us...

how about cut through the rubber with a hacksaw, then superglue it back together - it might work for the first startup

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Have you got any measurements on these useless mounts so a body can tell before putting them in if they are OK or not?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Dont suppose the rubber would get softer with some heat would it?

I just fitted aformentioned engine mounts to Scooby when I put the engine in. I fitted them to to engine first, then I used a couple of podgers to line up the two rear holes as I lowered the engine into the subframe and then got another person to fit the hardware to the front holes. It took about half an hour and was a small pain but it got done.

Gig

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67 Deluxe - Red and white
69 Deluxe - Sugercane Grey

I just got someone to jump up and down on the block until it settled in place.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Yes Mick, you have a surplus of body mass like me
- apply it to the engine while someone else tries to get the bolts in.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

From memory they are about 5mm thicker than std, which adds up to 10mm if you use 2 new ones.

Mine were an absolute B*TCH to fit. I spend probably 6 hours.

Here's my tips:

1. Don't do them up tight until you have BOTH of them on properly with the radiator bracket secure on the LH side (ie. the two long bolts going from the subframe mount to the gearbox/sump are aligned and hand-tight). Get the bolts through and the nuts on LOOSE as this will give you more adjustment on the other side.

2. Use a jack on the engine can help, but beware you don't move it too much as to hurt your exhaust manifold or foul your carbie on something. Don't put the subframe on axle stands otherwise you can't use the weight of the car/engine to 'align' the subframe mounts.

3. I didn't use a 'claw' for the bolts but many people do... I have smallish hands and suffered a few cuts.

4. A second person would be perfect, as it's hard to hold the bolt in place and get the nuts on and then apply torque with only person.

5. Remove all other engine mounts off your engine as they stop your engine 'aligning' to the subframe mounts - do this with caution though.

6. Ensure your torque values are correct (they are less into alloy than into steel).

In the future, only use genuine mounts, don't use captive nuts and don't weld the nuts on.
I used new grade 8 bolts for this.

Cheers,
Rob

Thanks guys.

Add this one to the list of useless mini crap parts thread.

It was a local supplier, so you would figure they would know better since they deal with the customers over the counter...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

My solution to this problem after a week of fruitless attempts to fit...

1. Buy genuine Rover mounts.
2. Take off dodgy mounts.
3. Put dodgy mounts in bin.
4. Fit new Rover mounts inside 15 minutes flat.... job done.
5. Beer time.

Just remember that the genuine engine mounts in Aussie cars were not made by Rover. They were made by Mackay in Australia.

I find its not to difficult to fit these ones, once you line up one side drop the bolts in them. Then you get some nice long pry bar, like a tyre lever and go from underneath the car. You can usually push the engine up a bit on the side you dropped the bolts in allowing the remaining side to, with a bit of shaking back and forth of the engine, let you get a screwdriver into one hole of the mount, so you can lever the mount into position better and then your on the home stretch.

Last time, I got 2 bits of 8mm steel bar, 150mm long, ground a point on one end to make em pry bars.
By working these in you can eventually get it so one bolt will fit. Do the nut up pretty tight, then use the pry bar to align the other hole.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As the engine sits in it's subframe (outside the car) the engine mount is unable to get into it's saddle any further than the holes touching the top of the subframe. I think I will bin them both and pick up the real thing... I reckon if it was a question of replacing just one engine mount the other might be thin enough to allow it, but two of these pecker head engine mounts is too much....

Too many other things on to get over to the mini parts place to voice my complaint till the end of the week,,,

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.