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| what to do before painting https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4785 |
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| Author: | bigel nigel [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 4:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | what to do before painting |
ive almost finished the rust part of my resto so ill be needing to paint her soon just wondering what is the best thing to do, sand it down to bare metal or just sand a bit down and paint the other stuff over it i am also lookin at the cheapest possible way of preparing it please help 
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| Author: | fuzzy-hair-man [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 4:53 pm ] |
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I would go right back to bare metal. From helping my brother with his Z's I've found there can be little patches of rust under primer paint or bog that you couldn't see  these would bubble and become problems latter it you don't find them and fix them. 
I dare say this isn't the cheapest way to go, but you will know exactly what's under there and I reckon it's worth it. that's my 2 cents
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| Author: | Angusdog [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 6:45 pm ] |
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I'm not far off that stage too, and need to check my plans. I'm planning on painting only the rear half of the car, currently painted in 2 pack (Front and rear will be different colours). I'm finishing replacing some rear panels, so they will be bare metal. I'm going to strip to bare metal up to halfway and feather it to the area where the original paint will remain. I'll be buying all the products from the local bodyshop supplier, and seeking his advice, but don't want to look silly... I'm planning on painting etch primer, primer filler (coupla coats) then top coat and clear coat. Do I need a paint isolator over the 2 pack, or will the etch primer be enough? Can I run the lacquer clear coat over the whole car (new paint and older 2 pack)? |
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 8:54 pm ] |
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Isolator is awesome for seperating different paint mediums. If you are putting say 2 pack over acrylic or enamel, it is highly recommended. Etch primer is brilliant on BARE METAL only....not so great on top of other paint. It bites into metal really well. Personally, as I did myself, I would sand to bare metal and leave till you are ready to paint or prime in one go. If you get a little surface rust coming back, sand it off before painting. Scotchbrite is great for doing that. |
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| Author: | MrBob [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 8:57 pm ] |
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Geez Anton, anyone would think you knew what you were doing or something  
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I sound like a paint nerd..... 
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| Author: | danidad [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 12:03 am ] |
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sound like a paint nerd and look like a paint sniffer LOL... good to see that mellon back.. thats the best one...when we first found ausmini Danielle saw tour avitar and said OMG these people are freaks... |
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| Author: | WhoDat [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 12:15 am ] |
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And dani was prolly right LOL I have just done a panel section and tried to cut corners [as we do] by not cutting it all the way back, [save on primer, save on time, save on effort]. Bottom line was the parts taken back to bare metal = great, but the parts not done so = crap finish, bemishes, yuk, not good enough, bugger this, ripped it all off down to bare metal and started again. No experience in paint and it showed |
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
danidad wrote: ... good to see that mellon back.. thats the best one...when we first found ausmini Danielle saw tour avitar and said OMG these people are freaks...
That's a classic!
<-------You gotta love 'the mullett'..... 
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| Author: | bigel nigel [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 4:32 pm ] |
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so down to bare metal is the best options ok thanx |
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| Author: | MiniK [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:21 pm ] |
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J_A_M wrote: Isolator is awesome for seperating different paint mediums. If you are putting say 2 pack over acrylic or enamel, it is highly recommended.
Etch primer is brilliant on BARE METAL only....not so great on top of other paint. It bites into metal really well. Personally, as I did myself, I would sand to bare metal and leave till you are ready to paint or prime in one go. If you get a little surface rust coming back, sand it off before painting. Scotchbrite is great for doing that. So you sanded all the way back, or did u use paint stripper etc? If you sanded what grit paper did you use anton. |
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:42 pm ] |
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I sanded with 400 wet/dry. JAM's paint was very thin, so it wasn't too hard to get it back to bare metal. I left it in a bare metal state for months. It copped a little surface rust, but GREEN Scotchbrite cleaned it up really well. Coarse paper scratches your surface, and if you don't use a primer filler and block it back, you get those marks in your gloss coat - so beware! |
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| Author: | MiniK [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:57 pm ] |
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No probs. Maverick has quite a few coats on him though it seems. I was going to use the electric sander but found it pretty harsh. I'd think 400 would be too soft for mine.....I have a can of primer filler ready and waiting as well. What do u think the max grit would be to go for? |
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| Author: | bigel nigel [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:01 pm ] |
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i read somewhere that u can use up to 80 grit but that seems very course abd i tryed it and if you push to hard it leaves marks in the metal 
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| Author: | MiniK [ Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:08 pm ] |
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I was thinking perhaps something in the magnitude of 120 or 180? |
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