I need some info. on replacing a clutch throw out bearing for my clubman.
Is it possible to do the job in the car, and where would I get a bearing (Brisbane)? It has just started making a noise and what sort of damage will it do if I don''t get it fixed before Australia Day parade?


Cheers Stuart

edit: pm sent

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It's pretty straight forward really , do you have a workshop manual ?

How much stuff is over the clutch housing (brake booster , radiator expansion tank etc ) ? You'll need to remove them all first , normally a brake booster you can move just enough to get the housing past it so don't stress too much .
First , chock the rear wheels and jack up the mini and put it on DECENT AXEL STANDS , not bricks . Remove earth wire from battery as you'll probably be using spanners near the starter solenoid if it's above the clutch housing . Undo the bolts from the drivers side engine mount , undo the earth strap from the clutch housing , take the clutch return spring off the clutch lever and undo the two bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder onto the engine (when you undo the bolts for the slave it will move back and the rod stays attached to the clutch arm so once the springs off you're set) . Undo all the 7/16th bolts around the face of the clutch housing (back ones about half way up can be a bitch to do ) , then jack the clutch end of the motor up slightly so there is room to pull the clutch cover off (bit of a wiggle and you're done , you'll figure it out) . Once you have the cover off and on the bench undo the two big nuts on the outside of the cover , then remove the pin holding the clutch arm to the housing and the clutch arm . Now the shaft that the bearing is on will slide out (towards the direction the clutch was when the cover wa on the car ) and you can take it to someone to get the old bearing pressed off and the new bearing pressed on . then reassemble it all (reverse of taking off) and adjust the clutch as per the manual (someone else can type that out ) .

Once you've done a few you can do them on the side of the road they are that easy , first time should only take a couple of hours to strip and reassemble , the longest time might be getting the old bearing off and new one pressed on .

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Thanks mate for the info.

Cheers Stuart

You're welcome , the absolute first thing you have to do though is ignore all the old mechanics who'll tell you mini's are hard to work on , it's the only car I know of that you can change the clutch bearing or complete clutch inside the car and without splitting the engine and gearbox . I'm not a small person and have largeish hands with short fingers but still do everything fairly easily . Don't be afraid to have a go and ask questions if you get stuck .

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Running it with a knackered throwout bearing doesn't do any long term damage. Even if it totally locks up it will only damage the (easily replaceable) plate on the spring plate.

Pete

I know for fact that Slacks Creek Brake and Clutch have these bearings. Although they are not quite the same as the original and require a washer or 2 to space it out closer too the diaphraghm(sp?). If you dont space it then you probably wont get enough travel to actually disengage the clutch. Unless you dodgy it up.

sports850 is pretty right with his description of removal & refit of throw out bearing,,, just a few things wrong tho,,, firstly you won`t have to remove the slave cyl bolts,,, it can stay there, but you will have to remove the starter motor (or at least undo it & move it out of the way a bit) just to allow the clutch cover to come out

& the bolts holdinbg the clutch cover are actually 5/16th ones (with 1/2inch spanner needed) & make sure you have all "coarse Thread" ones to go back in when re-fitting it

I carry the original type 3w5/8 & in my opinion it`s the only one to use,,, the cheaper one (7w5/8) doesn`t last anywhere near as long...

& anyone with worn linkages throughout there clutch system will most probably need a washer packed under/behind the bearing to take up all the play within the system,,, no matter which type of bearing you use... this just saves renewing all the worn arms pins etc... i`d prefer to replace any & all worn parts, arms , pins, etc, but it`s a bit more expensive compared to a simple flat washer fitted behind the throw out bearing.... But still,,, best do the job properly or you may end up with some dork over adjusting your clutch & end up with the throw out bearing running on the clutch the whole time & wearing out in 2-3 months... you`ll need to set some freeplay once the job is done,,, without freeplay at the clutch arm the bearing will pre-maturely wear

any dramas just give me a bell & i`ll help you out easy-peay

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

See what happens when you write something from memory

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I agree with Matt, the 3W5-8 Timken bearing is way better than the 5W5-8 one.
The latter are not bad when made in England by RHP, but I set the record for a dud Asian 5W5-8 bearing- I got 3 &@%$&* days!!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

what about this bearing? I received it in a QH kit. The markings are 'Breda Lorett 492/07'
Ideas?

Doc,,, it`s "7"--- W5/8,,, not "5"---w5/8... am i now the god dammnnn typing correction agency for Ausmini or what,,, what`s going on??? figures & facts are meant to be just that boys & girls.... get them right or you`ll have bearing companys selling mini customers throw-out bearings that don`t actually fit



just kidding,,, i type the wrontfhg ShE1te froom tymee t2 tymmme miiiselfff



& Ty,,, i remember there were quite a few other companies trying to offload similar thrust bearings back in the day & numbers were all over the shop,,, until someone standardised the measuring system to simple imperial & metric stuff if it measures upo ok then it`s probably a go-er



ok,,, i have dribbled enough crap for the night

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.