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Low brake pedal
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49322		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  1018cc [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 5:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Low brake pedal
Hey guys, I am after some idea's why the brake pedal in Ash's clubby remains low and I can't get the brakes to start working until (at best) 1/2 way through the pedal travel.

All wheel cyclinders are either fairly new or brand new. It has freshly machined drums up front with the correct size brake shoes. I have just replaced all 4 front wheel cylinders (today) and I did the back ones a couple of months ago. All brakes have been adjusted. I have bled all corners and am getting a steady amount of fluid with no air.

I am thinking I am going to replace the flexible lines (all 4) and the master cylinder. Any other thoughts cause it's giving me the shits :evil:
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 5:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
My brother owned a Leyland Mini that had a low pedal. No matter what I did it always had a very low pedal, I looked at everything, adjusted them and checked them again and again. Then I finally found the problem....

There was no clevis pin between the brake pedal and the master cylinder! :shock: :shock: :shock:

Check that there is a clevis pin in place and if there is a pin check that there is no wear in the fork or the pin.

I would ignore the hoses for now and go straight for the bottom of the master cylinder. :D
Author:  1018cc [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 5:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the suggestion M1100. I forgot to mention, I have already checked it, very little wear on it. The pedal moves about 4mm or so (at the pedal rubber end where you press it) before the action of the pedal starts to move the rod on the master cylinder. I put it all back together with a new split pin as well.
Author:  Tombo [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
If the hoses look at all dodgey, replace them, and ballooning is bad.
My trick for bleeding is - full master, open the bleed nipple and get your assistant to pump the pedal 15 times very quickly, do this for all wheels.
Then jack up the car and adjust the brakes till they just drag, no drag and the pedal will be lower than a snakes arse.
Author:  1018cc [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hoses look ok as it is, but I still think I'll replace them just to be sure.

I have a one man brake bleeder kit, no need for an assistant and am getting solid brake fluid, no bubbles from every pedal stroke, on all four corners.

I have adjusted the brakes so they drag HEAVILY. This is just to see where the brake came to. I will back them off a bit once I get the pedal up.
Author:  gafmo [ Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'd be checking the Hoses..get under it and get someone to pump the peddle
Author:  BALLISTIC [ Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
1018cc has it been like this since the car was purchased and put on the road or was it better and has since deteriorated as you have previously described :?:

What type of master cylinder and proportioning valve does it have (location, bulk head or rear sub frame)
Author:  1018cc [ Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
The pedal has always been pretty low. As long as Ash has had the car the brakes have always started working at around 1/2 way. I'll probably find dodgy crap as I go along because the P.O. didn't know anything (one of the wheel cylinders I replaced was only being held on by one bolt for example).

I reckon it has stayed the same since she's had it.
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