well now that the R1 dream is over it's time to start my 66 custom.
Have found a shell and have someone to piece it all together for me but thought i might take this opportunity to get some advice and feedback. Ummm this could take a while, but here goes.....

have a stripped and painted 66 deluxe shell, which shall be rebuilt loosely to 's' specs. What has been offered as part of the finished package is....
*1275 A series motor with twin carbs (su's i believe)
*reco 7.5' cooper s discs upfront
*dry suspension with front being adj
*simple yet original re-upholstered interior

so my question to you guys is what do you reccomend, add, or modify?

eg. 7.5' discs or 8.4'
what carb set-up?
cams? (i was thinking vizard R-13 spec)
10' 12" or 13' inch rims
cooling system upgrade?
what type of gearbox....eg early or late remote linkage?

crap i know this could go on for ever, but understand i merely looking for a clean, reliable cooper-a-like. but seeing as it's being built from scratch, i just thought if anyone has any intelligent and reasonable suggestions, then i'd be best getting them done while it's on the hoist and all going back together........cheers

oh and i wont even begin with my insurance/rego headache!
save that for another post

"clean, reliable cooper-a-like"

then you must go for the 10" rims for the Cooper S look.
That also restricts your choice of brakes to 7.5"
The remote linkage style gearbox stabilises the engine better.
I haven't used one of GR's cams, but they are highly recommended.
The twin SUs continue the Cooper S theme
A good two row radiator is fine, but I like thermo fans.

Just my opinion. I'm shopping around for 12" tyres & there isn't a big choice.
Thinking of 13s for track... (I can't run 10" with my brakes)

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I'd go for:

7.5' discs (no booster)
Twin 1.5" SUs on a maniflow mild steel Manifold, matching Maniflow LCB extractors.
RE13 or HR255 Cam
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers (if you can find them.)
10" rims
Recored Aussie Radiator
4 Synchro (Remote linkage) gearbox.

I'd also add:
MED roadlight steel flywheel & Backplate w/grey diaphram
All balanced
Rimflo valves
123 Dizzy
Electric fuel pump and pressure regulator
Larger capacity Fuel tank (s)
Bigger, Braided oil feed tube to oil filter (Spin on alloy head type)
Silicone radiator and bypass hoses
Adjustable lower suspension arms, and tie bars.
Ride height adjustment on the rear as well as the front (hi-lo)
Battery Cut out switch
Thermo fan if doing traffic regularly.
I'd consider a rover cooper 'sports' half leather interior, very comfy, or even go for the cobra 'classic' seats with proper cobra subframes for a mini.
Switch to an alternator, get a 'gemini' starter motor (new from MG heritage, about $160ish, ready to bolt on)
Get a new Smiths Tacho
Refurbish the original bus-twirler, or go for a motolita steering wheel.

Insure with Shannons,

Done!

Matthew

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Now you're going a bit further Matt - my engine has the rimflows, gemini starter, 1.3 roller rockers etc (and I love it) but all of that stuff will depend on the budget and is a bit more than is needed for a reliable "Cooperish"

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Mine too, but if you're going to do it, now is the cheapest time to do it!!

It all adds cost tho!

Hey, we've gotta fill the R1 void somehow

PS, don't forget the Yoko A032R tyres

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

If you want it to be reliable, make sure that everything you put on it is new, or in perfect condition.

Because you are starting from scratch now is the easiest time to get it exactly how you want it. Swapping things out later can be expensive.

Who is building it for you? (You can PM me the answer if you like).

Don't rush into anything, building a car from scratch is expensive and you want it to be perfect!

Ryan

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

so after months of searching and tyre kicking (and ummming and arhhhing)
the 66 deluxe has been confirmed!
placed a deposit today and negotiated all the specs.

photos and info to follow......
(too excited to bother today......celebratory ales making things harder too!)
WOOHOO

now for the sucky month long wait for the build to finish!?
small price to pay i guess for what has been a life long dream.....

I know the car you have bought, you have picked one of the best guys in the game to put it together, it should be a lovely car for you, congrats.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

oooo definitely put pics up in the Member's Gallery for us please!

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Have to agree except for the radiator, I say go for an ozy 3 core with an electric fan mounted in the wheel arch so on really hot days you can flick a switch and get more air passing over the radiator .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Thermo fan with extra switch that gives me more control of how the engine is cooled, works for me and is the best thing for that cramped little space under the bonnet....

Never a problem on 40 degree days with the A/C running, gauge always sits right in the middle with fan running, even in heave traffic.

Gotta go the Elec fan for sure.

Just in case you were wondering, this sort of modification will take you well beyond the $5000 budget. More like $7500 to $10,000 if you are looking for head mods, so I hope that's what you are looking to spend.

My comments on this list are:

7.5' discs (no booster) Be careful with recoing 7.5's. Sometimes it will cost nearly the same amount as buying a brand new set of brakes after recoing everything, but you end up with second hand brakes at the end of it
Twin 1.5" SUs on a maniflow mild steel Manifold, matching Maniflow LCB extractors. Twin SUs are good for around 100hp. If you want over 100hp look to a single 1.75 SU on one of GR's manifolds, or a Dellorto/Webber. Medium Bore LCB is enough
RE13 or HR255 Cam
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers (if you can find them.) Why stop at 1.3? 1.5's on a RE13 cam is the way to go for power
10" rims Minis handle best on 10's
Recored Aussie Radiator
4 Synchro (Remote linkage) gearbox Go all the way with Cooper S ratio's if you're game. You'll need S first motion and laygear. Go for a full gearbox reco, heavy duty layshaft, new synchros, check your selector forks, reco diff
MED roadlight steel flywheel & Backplate w/grey diaphram
All balanced
Rimflo valves Forget the fancy stuff, get the basics right. New guides, unworn S sized valves, new double springs. Further to this power in an A series is locked away in the head. Proper head mods is what you'd want along with a full head reco. If you run out of money, this is where you should spend it before anything else.
123 Dizzy $$$ go for it. A properly reco'd mechanical dissy will work just fine, or a properly modified electronic dissy. 123 gives you many curves to choose from, you will only ever set it to one curve... it's like having a full 140 piece toolbox to put together ikea furniture...
Electric fuel pump and pressure regulator Pay attention to flow volume. I have a 6psi pump regulated to 3.5psi, fuel lines is the real secret
Larger capacity Fuel tank (s)
Bigger, Braided oil feed tube to oil filter (Spin on alloy head type) barided is bling, i just have a top quality pirtek unbraided hose
Silicone radiator and bypass hoses Block the bypass completely and drill your thermostat instead
Adjustable lower suspension arms, and tie bars. Check your rears. Although I am not advocating adjustable rears (again set once and forget) I would get your rears checked for aligment first to be sure they are right. You want some toe out and negative camber on the rears. Minis handle and ride on their rear tyres...
Ride height adjustment on the rear as well as the front (hi-lo)
Battery Cut out switch
Thermo fan if doing traffic regularly. Bah humbug. Spend the money redistripping your block to get rid of rust. Buy a new or properly reco your radiator and that will be more than enough to keep your car cool. I have 120bhp with a metal fan and she runs too cool in winter (Barely every reaching proper running temps) and in summer she never overheats.
I'd consider a rover cooper 'sports' half leather interior, very comfy, or even go for the cobra 'classic' seats with proper cobra subframes for a mini. $2000+ I should know I just got quotes...
Switch to an alternator, get a 'gemini' starter motor (new from MG heritage, about $160ish, ready to bolt on)
Get a new Smiths Tacho Bounce around too much but it does look bling

More things to think about:

ARP rod bolts and head studs
11 stud head conversion
Belt drive timing
Isky lifters
2" exhaust
Intake manifold porting depending on what you choose
Flares depending on your wheel offset
Rear wheel cylinder change to accomodate S brakes
Braided oil pressure line
Dyno tuning[/b]

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

wow... thanks for the feedback guys.
your suggestions are much appreciated,
but unfortunately the budget couldn't accommodate all
of your suggestions...!?

and before you all start to tell me to do it right the first time,
most of you will agree..... the mods never end surely?!?

the car will be a compromise of realism and dreams.....

when it's finished it should be running...
1330cc A-series
12G940 unleaded head
266 camshaft
twin 1.25" SU's
electric fuel pump
upgraded alternator and starter
2 core alloy radiator with metal fan
LCB/RC40 extractors and exhaust

7.5" cooper type discs
brake booster
10inch alloys

4 synchro remote 22G1040 box
pot joints
3.6 diff ratio

interior and exterior will be simple and classic
original seats, dash, gauges, and steering wheel.
minimal external chrome and bumpers and bling.

sure i've left stuff out, but i sure you'll agree it should be a fun
lil daily driver!!
(not that i do much driving or go very far but that should change!)

pics of the build coming soon........

Only 2 things I would change. Ditch the booster and swap diff ratio to 3.4.

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Hhhmmm,,, i shouldn`t, , , , ah ,,, what the heck

go for a turbo charged , injected, Bimmer Twin Cam 16v cyl head conversion

& obviously fit the strongest of everything underneath it

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.