i was told today that the only difference between a mini k box and a mk2 s box is the cluster gear and the 1st motion gear.

I know of a mk2 s box for sale that is in need of a reco (did the idler), there is also a mini k box for sale. I wanted to know, when rebuilding a mk2 s box do you generally replace the cluster gear and 1st motion gear because if this is the case would i be better off buying a K box and changing it into an s box?

The S box is $500
the k box $150-$200
(Both need a reco)
(Both include a diff)(for comparison sake exclude uni's)

So would there be much of a difference after a rebuild or im still better of with the S box?
(im sure i can get the rebuild done at mates rates , i just have to buy the parts )

Thanks Brenton

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Probably best to buy both, strip both, and use all of the best bits to make one good one.

It is difficult to tell which one would be better without seeing what sort of condition they are in.

Generally speaking if the gears are okay then you probably only need to replace, the layshaft and layshaft bearings and possibly the synchros, idler bearings and 1st motion outriggger.

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68 Mini
70 Moke

The only other difference between a MK2S and Mini-K box is the diff ratio, and the drive flange setup including diff side covers.
If you want to use Cooper S Hardy Spicer drive couplings, buy the S box for this as these S bits are getting harder to find and expensive..
I agree with Smarty, best to buy em both.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Brenton,
Normally when rebuilding a full syncro S box you would not replace the First Motion Shaft or the Cluster.
The first motion Shaft is near impossible to buy and the Cluster is getting harder to get too.
If you want S ratios you will have to buy the S box provided the two gears required are in good condition.
The only way to tell if they are good is to inspect when the box is in pieces.
Just so you know when your looking the S first motion shaft has 18 teeth with a small s stamped next to the pilot bearing hole.
Dave

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I found these
cluster gear

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... %20GENUI...

1st motion to go with this is

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 18%20TEE...

Or both together (better option)

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... G1040%20...

so if i bought both would work out at about 100 pound and maybe 50 pound postage so about say 150 pound which is about $325ish and that way i know they are good... so 200 +325ish =525ish which i think is the better go........

Opininons?

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You may well find that this 13H1371 1st motion shaft is out of stock, they are getting rare.
Another option if so is to use DAM3167 (late 1275GT) instead. This has 18T too and uses the same cluster, but takes a mainshaft with 18mm nose bearing (so is a stronger setup).
I can convert your early 14mm mainshaft to 18mm if needed, $70 including express postage. I machine the shoulder of the shaft and fit a hardened bearing inner ring. Saves you buying a new mainshaft...
Here's one I prepared earlier...
http://home.exetel.com.au/zoomini/zoomi ... GP1472.JPG

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah, but you still don't have the right output shafts and hardie spicers, and you don't have a 3.44 diff

buy the 2 boxes

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Brenton,
At $500 the S gear box is not bad value for money provided the parts that count are there and in good condition. Remember you also get the S Diff set up with drive flanges and all associated parts which are all geting rarer and are worth money.
I would put it to the guy selling it that you would like to see it in pieces before you could make a decision!
Dave

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ohh ok ........

Thanks for the replies.

I will have a chat with the fellow and go from there
Thanks all

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Hi all, Just to confirm that a Mini K box is the same as a MK2 Cooper S except for the main gear cluster and the output gear/ 1st motion shaft. The gearbox in my Cooper S is exactly this configuration. I reused the diff gears from the MK1 gearbox to retain the correct 3.4 to 1 ratio and the output shafts to retain the steel uni joints.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I've seen quite a few late clubman boxes with 3.4 ratios

Most/all clubby rodchange boxes were 3.4. I've never stripped one with anything else in.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.