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 Post subject: Mini Brakes
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:57 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 4:06 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Binningup WA
I just found out how bad four wheel drum brakes are.... the hard way :shock: :cry:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:59 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong
smash?? :shock:

whats the rear bar like?? :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:01 pm 
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1360cc
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"Much damage?"....

"You should see the damage Bronze.....metal damage....brain damage...."


Sorry dude...just a few lines from my fav movie :wink:

Sorry to hear. Are both you and the Mini OK?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:02 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Bundaberg QLD
I found that the drums were not to bad if they are adjusted correctly.

They should have pleanty of pedal and stop just as good not better then disc's

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:11 pm 
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1360cc
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yea the drums in my K are sweet as!! You are right...got to keep them adjusted....you can't get lazy..... 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:27 pm 
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1275cc
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dude that sucks, hope all is not too bad!!

you think the brakes are bad, ask Anton (JAM) about
my brakes on Vivian (76 clubbie) he was like
"the pedal just went straight to the floor"
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
(really that is not funny, but i have been trying everything to
get them to work well, adjusted, bled replaced shoes and
adjuster screws and still the same crap :evil: )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:28 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
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Location: Armidale, NSW
When my old man was trying to persuade me not to go and buy S disk brakes he was saying that drum brakes could actually be more effective than disks.

His example was when disks came in Mercedes racing team were still running drums and they could out brake most other cars at the time :shock: The difference was that they were running some pretty large drums and had put a lot of effort into keeping the drums cool.
If I remember rightly he said they were steel drums with copper(I think) outside and venting for better heat conductivity.
Before I get flamed this was quite sometime ago and to be fair disk brake technology would only have been emerging so drum brakes would still have had an advantage. Sorta like the cooper brakes weren't much better than the twin leading shoe design (by all accounts)

I think one of the big plusses of disks appart from thier heat tolerance was that they are self adjusting. Like JAM and Yellow devil said if you keep drums adjusted properly they are fine.

That's my 2 cents :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:29 pm 
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1360cc
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Chris I reckon it's your master cylinder.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:31 pm 
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1275cc
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i think that too, but dont want to admit it
cos then i will have to buy a new one or take
that one out and replace the seals, lack of time/money/knowledge


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:54 pm 
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Location: Grays Point
Just whack of 9 1/4 inch discs in the bastard!!! 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 3:04 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong
czerial wrote:
i think that too, but dont want to admit it
cos then i will have to buy a new one or take
that one out and replace the seals, lack of time/money/knowledge


chris have you changed the rear wheel cylinders?? mine looked brandnew and still had a leak (no liquid) just air...

I got my master recoed at B&R brakes seven hills,,, cost me $50 all up.

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76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:04 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:38 am
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Location: West Sydney
G'Day,
I recently refurbished the rear brakes including slaves, flexible hoses and steel lines from the proportional valve on. I found patches of thick damp dirt accumulated on the top of the swingarms where the steel lines bolted up to the hoses and around the screw fittings. When I pulled the lines out I found the steel lines had micro fractures along the seam at the point where it was swaged which leaked fluid (only very slowly and otherwise unnoticed). It explained why pedal used to gradually go spongy. I invested in the proper swage tools and new steel lines and all is really good now. As an exercise I cut the old line and re-swaged it and every time the tube fractured, while another line from my one year older 850 did not fracture. My guess is the 1965 lines were defective when new.... :roll:
Dino

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:47 pm 
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1360cc
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very interesting...........Pops has seepage at one rear brake line connection.....might be the same prob you have described! Cheers for that!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:56 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 4:06 pm
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Location: Binningup WA
Yeah, i had a smash. A car two in front of mine jumped on the brakes for no apparent reason, the commodore ute in front of me was able to stop in time, i wasn't. I found out thursday when i had my brakes done that one of my wheel cylinders was ancient and had exploded when i jumped on the stoppers, thus my lack of braking power!
I had bled the bloody things two weeks before and i reckon that bit of extra pressure was a bit too much for the cylinders.
Not too much damage and the thing is still driveable, drove it 100 k's yesterday to go wakeboarding and it loved it.
f**k i love minis.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 6:31 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 10:17 pm
Posts: 460
Location: Sydney
my brakes failed once. leak in a hose. and ended up taking a corner rather faster than i would have wanted to. thank god mini handle so well anything else and i would have hit the guuter or a tree. later when i was trying to fix it my girlfriend was pumpin the pedal so i could located the leak and i found it was the right rear flexable hose. but i showed her and she said she saw a puddle of that bellow that car 3 days ago. it would have been nice to know back then i said with a smile :?

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