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| Where do the studs go? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51505 |
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| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | Where do the studs go? |
When I pulled the motor apart I put the bits in little bags- when I put the block and gearbox back together I used all new bolts but there were no studs in the original lot but also not enough bolts - some were missing when I pulled it apart - so I guess there were no studs originally. Only one hole won't take a NFC bolt -thats next to the crank at the radiator end so I guess this is a stud hole? Is the other on the other side of the crank? If so it's got an NFC bolt in it now 
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| Author: | Mini_Special [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
They are all 1/4 UNF bolts except for 2 studs which are 1/4 UNC but these are next to teh dowel ( clutch end) and 3rd hole back front the radiator end. i assumption you are talking about the engine/gearbox bolts? |
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| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:17 am ] |
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Well there are 1/4" UNF bolts in those holes  - not forced done up with fingers first before spanner so guess someone has retapped the holes
Any reason why they were studs and not bolts? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mini_Special wrote: They are all 1/4 UNF bolts except for 2 studs which are 1/4 UNC but these are next to teh dowel ( clutch end) and 3rd hole back front the radiator end.
i assumption you are talking about the engine/gearbox bolts? These 2 studs are UNF both ends. They are screwed into the block, so UNF not UNC. This applies to ALL the front and back bolts as well that hold the gearbox up to the block. They used 2 studs there because bolts are a little awkward to get in. |
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| Author: | Mini_Special [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wombat wrote: Well there are 1/4" UNF bolts in those holes
- not forced done up with fingers first before spanner so guess someone has retapped the holesAny reason why they were studs and not bolts? You are correct the should all be UNF find the silly twit who designed it and ask him. and also ask him why he thought it was good idea to make it so the distributor drive wont come out at certain crank angles. If you are making a big HP motor it is not a bad idea to change them all to 5/16" UNF. Mainly BIG torque motors can flex thsi joint and cause the bolts to become lose as it compresses the spring washer into the alloy case and then when it relaxes it can cause the bolt to have less tension on it. Have seen it twice, once on a 1460 and once on a 1250 |
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| Author: | Mick [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:18 pm ] |
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Funny thing is the studs make it no easier imho...you'll get them in Wombat, even if you have to undo all the bolts by a turn to allow something to shift a fraction. I perhaps wondered if the studs helped the factory align the gearbox to the block quickly when assembling as well? I know if you go at it too quickly the gaskets will shift without something to hold them in place. The large dowels are there at the end, but only have a very short reach. |
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| Author: | mickmini [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:31 pm ] |
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i think cap screws might make it a bit easier if you can get a driver with a uni joint in it. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a Mk1 S (thin flange) ex-race motor with 5/16" UNF capscrews fitted. They were a right PITA to do up... I had no ball-end hex keys back then. 
I've never had oil leaks with overbored thick flange blocks, even with the original 1/4" UNF bolts. |
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