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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:24 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
with the head still on... is it possible? :|

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“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:26 pm 
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998cc
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Location: West Brisbane
Got small hands?

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- 1962 Beige Delight club car, Rebuilding.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:28 pm 
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This space for rent
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mattsmadmini wrote:
with the head still on... is it possible? :|


Yes, but be prepared for much profanity and skinning of knuckles.

Or for extra enjoyment, try it on the side of the road at night in the rain.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:31 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
That slot in the pipe on the head side always makes me curse.
I could murder whoever thought of that :twisted:

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
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Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:33 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Get everything that is in your way outta there first. Top rad bracket, heater hose etc. A little extra room to move goes a long way.

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:40 pm 
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998cc
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Location: West Brisbane
Step one. have small hands
step two. discard all books on subject
step 3 . Have a go!
step for. Be asttounded at your l33t skilz as you have done it

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- 1962 Beige Delight club car, Rebuilding.
- Motorkana Special
- Minor Mishap, 1958 Morris Minor

-- Last ever Tea Lady at Longbridge--


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:43 pm 
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Step 5. Stand back and admire your handiwork, then realise you forgot to put on the hose clamps.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:45 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Melbourne. Westie.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

got to be easy... I've done it.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:50 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
with everything still in place?

hahahaha

i put the radiator back in the other day... (had to re-fitt elec fan) before i realised i needed a new bypass...

putting it in took close to half an hour (squeeze here, bend there) finally get it in! then look down the bottom to see that the bottom radiator to engine bracket was facing the wrong way.... not happy...


i think ill have a beer or 6 before i get into it...

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:53 pm 
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998cc
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Location: West Brisbane
I have done it numerous times as the supplier i was using kept getting dodgey one that never expanded far enuf.
i am currently using ORTAC hose made by good year as it is nice and flexible and easy to move into pos.

i found it os easier to remove rad and fan at the very least

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- 1962 Beige Delight club car, Rebuilding.
- Motorkana Special
- Minor Mishap, 1958 Morris Minor

-- Last ever Tea Lady at Longbridge--


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:02 pm 
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The easiest way to change the hose is to take off the water pump. This gives the added benefit of actually knowing the condition of the water pump. :D
But you can easily squeeze a hose in place if you know what you are doing. I prefer to use new hose clamps that I can fit a ¼" drive socket onto, it is easier to tighten awkward clamps with a socket unlike a screwdriver that will try to jump off all the time.
New clamps are easier to work with than trying to re-use the 40 year old ones.
Also use good quality hose and not the shoddy/dodgy/useless accordion hose that so many people fit.

Other tips..
Do not ever use silicone sealant on a hose. It acts as a lubricant and the hose can slip off as you tighten up the clamps.
Keep the band-aids handy. You probably should have a couple already opened to save time. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Anybody wants brass hose adaptors without a slot that won't rust, PM me.
$12 each, posted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:26 pm 
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Yay For Hay!
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
here's my bypass hose - it's invisible, never splits, never leaks, never needs changing, I don't have to line it up when you put the head on, and is really really cheap

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:29 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 2:38 pm
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Location: Huon Valley, TAS
simon k wrote:
here's my bypass hose - it's invisible, never splits, never leaks, never needs changing, I don't have to line it up when you put the head on, and is really really cheap

Image

Love the psychedelic engine paint too :shock:

Dicko


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
simon k wrote:
here's my bypass hose - it's invisible, never splits, never leaks, never needs changing, I don't have to line it up when you put the head on, and is really really cheap

Image

I hope you drilled some holes in the thermostat, otherwise you now have NO water circulation in block and head until the thermostat opens. :P
I have a Metro head I'm overhauling right now, that plug is coming out so it can get a `proper' Mini bypass hose fitted. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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