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Any tips for removing a flywheel?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51690		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Kennomini [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Any tips for removing a flywheel?
Any tips for removing a flywheel? I've currently got a puller on it and all tightened up but it ain't budging :x would a rattle gun help? I've tried hitting the flywheel through the starter motor hole with a BFH but that hasn't done anything either...
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
They take a lot of pressure to get them to pop off.

Do you have a heat gun? The last one I removed I tightened up the puller and heated the hub of the flywheel with a heat gun and just kept nipping up the puller till the flywheel popped off. :wink:

Keep your toes clear. :lol:
Author:  michaelb [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
till the flywheel popped off.



Dont you mean "went bang!"
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
michaelb wrote:
Quote:
till the flywheel popped off.



Dont you mean "went bang!"

No. It just popped off.
They usually go bang but because I used the heat gun it just popped off instead of the usual dent the inner guard while making a big bang.
Author:  Wombat [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I gave it liberal WD40 twice a day and when ever I was passing and also gave the puller a 'tweak' - lot trying to undo but just to keep the tension on. After about 5 -6 days it just came off - all loose like

Also more accident than design the engine stand held the motor with the flywheel end up with the motor on about a 45° angle that meant that had the flywheel come off with a 'pop' it would have not dropped onto my toes - something to be careful of.
Author:  clubmn [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  jay
DONT USE A HAMMER through the starter hole... even though it might be tempting!

2 reason IF U MISS, your housing WILL break... not good for your flywheel and crank either!
Author:  1018cc [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Use a brass drift and use a hammer to give the centre of the flywheel a sharp hit. It should let go with a bang (keep your puller done up though).
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't like the idea of hitting a flywheel at all. You get nasty little stress spots that can turn into cracks.
I also don't like the idea of hitting a flywheel through the starter hole. I don't know if any of you have watched a crank bloke straighten a bent crank but it is just a case of giving it a fair old whack with a hammer. The same sort of whacks that some people use to get a flywheel off.

Just try using a proper puller and it will come off.
If you don't have a proper puller get someone else to fix your damn car.
Don't use half arsed methods that can cause further damage down the line.

Try using a heat gun with the proper puller and it is a piece of piss.
Author:  simon k [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't know where I got it from, but I have a flywheel centre bolt that's about 1" longer than normal - I put it in the end of the crank and screw my puller up against that, so when it does go bang, the flywheel can't fall off - love it :D
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
There is still folklore out there in the Mini world (it started in UK, land of flimsy flywheel pullers) that when you do the puller up you then HAVE to hit the end of the puller centre bolt with a VBFH.
As M1100 says this is not good for the crank. It wasn't good for the head of my puller bolt either... it took me a while to file the bruised hexagon to fit the 1-1/2" socket again. :x
The bloke who did it ain't using mine again. :wink:
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
tips to removing a flywheell you ask???

"""Hydraulic puller""

:-)
Author:  simon k [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
There is still folklore out there in the Mini world (it started in UK, land of flimsy flywheel pullers) that when you do the puller up you then HAVE to hit the end of the puller centre bolt with a VBFH.
As M1100 says this is not good for the crank. It wasn't good for the head of my puller bolt either... it took me a while to file the bruised hexagon to fit the 1-1/2" socket again. :x
The bloke who did it ain't using mine again. :wink:


I was shown how to take the flywheel off once - by an Anglican Vicar no less..... he unscrewed the flywheel bolt a bit, grabbed his BFH and beat the living sh*t out of it - straight on the end of the crankshaft :shock:
Author:  david rosenthal [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
my flywheel puller has a 1 1/2" thread and a 2 1/4" bolt head. 3/4" impact gun they just jump off :D
Make sure that the 3/8" UNF bolts that screw into the flywheel hub are in a full length and that they are all equal length before you put the pressure on the puller.
Author:  Tombo [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
david rosenthal wrote:
my flywheel puller has a 1 1/2" thread and a 2 1/4" bolt head. 3/4" impact gun they just jump off :D
Make sure that the 3/8" UNF bolts that screw into the flywheel hub are in a full length and that they are all equal length before you put the pressure on the puller.

Mine is like that, but a 1" unf nut welded into a hole in a 9/16 thick plate with a matching bolt, and three 3/8 bolts to the flywheel.
I didn't have a spanner so i made one with the gas axe and a lump of steel. Get someone to hold the engine still and 'pop goes the flywheel' (works 'in car' too)
The South African mechainc a my work has seen broken cranks from belting the flywheel :shock:
Author:  david rosenthal [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
One thing I have found with the flywheels is that if the taper has been knocked around them the fly wheels seem to jamb on . Before I refit them I lap them in and check with brg blue to make sure of uniform fit.
Then give the surface a LIGHT smear of white lead before re-fitting.

The taper on the crank is only a std No. 5 morse taper. Thats how I spin them in the lathe. Use the taper collet in the head sock spindle, just slip the crank in and run center in the other end. Best way for checking runout on the crank
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