Hi,
I need to replace the universal joints and have been told you can get nylon ones instead of the rubber. Does anyone know who sells them here?
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| Nylon Universal Joints https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51703 |
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| Author: | Brad's 68 [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Nylon Universal Joints |
Hi, I need to replace the universal joints and have been told you can get nylon ones instead of the rubber. Does anyone know who sells them here?
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:00 pm ] |
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They were made by Quinton Hazell years ago but are unobtainium now, unless someone has a stash hidden. The U/joint inside it is a Triumph TR6 or Austin 1800, if anybody wants to set up and make the nylon outer cups. I have seen them with steel cups too. Many moons ago. 
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| Author: | crisonic [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:09 pm ] |
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Brad I dont think there ever was a nylon U/J but there was a nylon adaptor that allowed you to fit a standard universal joint to the shape of the hook joint fitted to standard mini drive shafts. In the old days they were sold as a complete UJ kit but again as far as I know they are not available. You can buy the standard U/J new - Hardy Spicer No is K5-L4R. It fits a number of newer cars so you shouldnt have any problems sourcing it. I suggest you contact John Smidt as a possible source of nylon adaptors If you have access to a machine workshop he may have one you could copy In desperation I once machined up 8 of these things ( you need 8 per car) but you need a lathe and a milling machine with a tilting head to do it and it takes forever If you do do it ,it forever fixes the decaying rubber that emerges from all the oil from the oil leaks |
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| Author: | Timbo [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:35 pm ] |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:27 pm ] |
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The part number for the Quinton Hazel ones was QL5000. The nylon cups were not sold separately, they were always sold as a complete uni-joint. Repco used to make some in Australia with black cups. 
These were also sold by Leyland as better quality unis for Minis and Morris 1100s. 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:07 am ] |
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If you want to machine some cups up, I have drawings (not mine) 
One drawing is for steel cups (easier to make, no milling-) the other for nylon cups (a bastard)- PM me with your email address.. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:15 pm ] |
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I wonder if it would be more viable to get the cups moulded? That is how QH and Repco did them. Anyone have any ideas? The Repco style is a lot easier to make than the QH style. They don't have that extra locating lug. |
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| Author: | crisonic [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:45 pm ] |
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Doc Its the locating lug around 50% of the circumference that is the pig of a thing to make. If we could just use a lathe in one operation - much easier. The Repco black ones must surely have the same critical dimensions as the QH ones. If thats the case then I shall make a set . I have a number of old QH plastics so I have the critical dimensions Can you confirm that this is the case. Are the steel ones basically the same shape? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:06 pm ] |
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Steel ones basically the same except no locating lug on them. PM me your email address and I'll give you drawings.
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| Author: | Karcraft [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:53 pm ] |
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Having sold many 100's of the QH joints they were far superior than the Repco units. The extra flange on the QH item was a major design advantage. If the u bolt because loose on the Repco unit whilst driving the nylon end cap would then come off and often cause considerable damage. QH added the flange to stop this. We deal directly with QH in the UK and have been advised that they stopped making QL5000 because of lack of demand. 
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| Author: | MINImal effort [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:43 pm ] |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:44 pm ] |
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I was thinking the same thing re those Repco ones. I reckon steel caps would be more durable, you could do the U-bolts up a bit tighter without distortion. |
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| Author: | david rosenthal [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:29 pm ] |
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The end cap coming loose is the problem I found with the first set I made with nylon caps. I tried some out of alumin, but when I fitted them to the car I found that if the end clearance across the uni was spot on , then if the axle had the slightest run out the uni would bind-up as it rotated. The rubber allows for any slight axle run-out as it's flexable. Same problem with a tail-shaft that has a slight bend in it. The nylon is harder with less flex ,but they work on the "U"bolts and eventually come loose. With the jigs I made ,I spin the yoke in the lathe and cut a groove towards the outside of the yoke. The nylon cap has a mating ridge machined on it to fit in this groove. If the bolts do work slightly loose the cap is still held into place by the ridge. These have been on a car for 18months now and had a real flogging and are still O.K. |
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