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timing q.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52291		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Dylans Clubby [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 1:41 pm ]
Post subject:  timing q.
Hi all,

we tuned my mini about a month and a half back, maybe 2 months now, and had it running superbly. there was a lot of scatter though (up for a shiny new duplex timing chain :D don't know why one didnt go on when we built it, i could afford it :?) it was running so rough, maybe 20 deg before TDC!!!

dialled it back to 7 degrees, but it was scattering around alot. and now the mini is running a bit rought, hard to start etc. time for another tune? it shouldn't need it this soon should it? is this only because of the loose timing chain, putting it out a bit?

got to get it running beautifully for the GOR run next weekend!
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Timing scatter could also be due to be wear in the dizzy shaft top bush or advance mechanism, endfloat in the dizzy driveshaft, or too much camshaft endfloat due to a worn thrust plate.
All these things do add up...

I run a Nissan Pulsar dizzy with a timing belt kit, and .005" endfloat on the shafts. Timing scatter is close to nil.
Author:  Drexxle [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
im running a 29D and getting a little of this so called scatter, is a pertronix 45D locked equivelant a decent way to go, they do set you back around $400 bux.

Is a pulsar dizzy a hard conversion. Or does it drop straight in, does the tongue split match or do you need to machine.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Drexxle wrote:
im running a 29D and getting a little of this so called scatter, is a pertronix 45D locked equivelant a decent way to go, they do set you back around $400 bux.

Is a pulsar dizzy a hard conversion. Or does it drop straight in, does the tongue split match or do you need to machine.

See my conversion thread- http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1498
Short version of story-
It drops in, body diameter and length are right.
You need to cut the triangular flange plate off and machine, linish or grind that bit of the boss to fit a Mini dizzy clamp (the rest of boss is already the right size).
You take the Pulsar drive lug off the bottom and slip a Mini one on, drill the shaft for a Mini drive pin.
Check it has about .005-.010" endfloat with the thrust washer fitted.
All the above I have done in 20 mins...:mrgreen:
Then yes it will run. :D But to work at its best the advance curve needs mods, refer to info in thread above.
Author:  Drexxle [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
1. First get your Pulsar dizzy. Comes off an N12 Pulsar, 1600cc, late 80's.
Part Numbers: stamped on dizzy body near the vacuum canister-
Pulsar auto- D4R83- best on 848-998-1098 <edit> will work on stock 1275 but D4R85 is better.
Pulsar manual- D4R85- best on modified 1275 up, big cam, carb, head etc (IMO)
<edit> the auto has 16* dizzy mech advance & the manual has 12*
Double these numbers to get crank advance degrees.


Which of the two dizzies would you recommend for 1100 60 thou, im gathering the latter D4R85 in preference of of the 83.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 19, 2009 4:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you read the whole thread you will see I eventually found there is really not much difference between the 85 and the 83.
Take whichever you can get, send to Graham Russell and he'll mod the advance for you. :wink:

You could also fit an electronic `Pertronix clone' module to your 29D4 Lucas dizzy.
Contact `convertible mini' on here or search for a recent thread.

If you want a NEW Pertronix II Flamethrower dizzy and coil, PM me.
I'm after $300 for it.
Author:  Drexxle [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:41 am ]
Post subject: 
I pulled the 29D out today, and had a look at it again, and fark me there is some play in it, no wonder its dancing around all over the place. I reset it to 6 degrees and it was a little better but its still dancing around and running on when i turn the engine off.

Theres a pertronix office in West End, so i may go and see them ask some questions, ill look into the pulsar dizzie as well.

What needs to be done to change the advance curve. and where is Graham at. Im in Brisbane.

And 300 aint to bad, i got quoted just over $400 for a new one.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Drexxle wrote:
I pulled the 29D out today, and had a look at it again, and fark me there is some play in it, no wonder its dancing around all over the place. I reset it to 6 degrees and it was a little better but its still dancing around and running on when i turn the engine off.

Theres a pertronix office in West End, so i may go and see them ask some questions, ill look into the pulsar dizzie as well.

What needs to be done to change the advance curve. and where is Graham at. Im in Brisbane.

And 300 aint to bad, i got quoted just over $400 for a new one.


If you want a Pertronix dizzy or Pertronix Ignitor it's cheaper to bring it in from USA than buy here, even though the exchange rate isn't what it was.
I get them from http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm
Note all prices there are in US$

My dizzy for sale is the D171600 Pertronix II, with 45001, 0.6 ohm Flamethrower coil (chrome).
http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... eries1.htm


See my 2 Pulsar dizzy threads at top of the mods forum,
basically the 2 slots in the hardened advance plate need shortening to reduce centrifugal advance to 9 or 10 dizzy degrees, and the springs need to be lightened so it advances sooner.
Ring Graham Russell
113 North Rocks Rd
North Rocks, NSW.
(02) 9630 2195.
Author:  Wombat [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:42 am ]
Post subject: 
If you what to have a look at a modified Pulsar dizzy mine is not installed yet. GR also cut a groove in the shaft to allow oil to get in for lubrication.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:56 am ]
Post subject: 
All the Pulsar ones I've removed from Nissans have been packed with HMP grease.
They were NOT lubed by oil from the cambox on the OHC engines.
Mine got greased years ago, still going great no probs.

The only Pulsar one I've seen cark it in a Mini had not been cleaned out and repacked before fitting, and the grease in it was all dry.
Author:  simon k [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:21 am ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
All the Pulsar ones I've removed from Nissans have been packed with HMP grease.
They were NOT lubed by oil from the cambox on the OHC engines.
Mine got greased years ago, still going great no probs.

The only Pulsar one I've seen cark it in a Mini had not been cleaned out and repacked before fitting, and the grease in it was all dry.


I took my pulsar one out about a month ago, I'd greased it when I put it in, and it'd have easily done 20,000k's - grease was still in all the right places

I'm a few weeks away from pulling it out and putting it on the shelf tho ;)
Author:  Wombat [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:57 am ]
Post subject: 
OK so GR has made provision for it to be oil lubricated do I still pack it with grease OR if I pack it with grease will it leak out the hole?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Wombat wrote:
OK so GR has made provision for it to be oil lubricated do I still pack it with grease OR if I pack it with grease will it leak out the hole?

Pack it with HMP grease, won't hurt. Do the bobweight pivots and slots too.
Author:  poeee [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Dylan, get your dizzy rebuilt.
Author:  lmbm [ Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi Kevin,

if the dizzy driveshaft has too much endfloat how can we cure this ?
the A series block i've sourced has a bit of endfloat in the dizzy driveshaft.

Thanks
Cheers,
Luis
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