ausmini :: View topic - Clutch adjustment

1. Remove spring
2. Undo 7/16" AF nut whilst holding 7/16" af bolt
3. Screw bolt in till gap appears
4. Attach spring
5. Check clutch feel
6. Repeat steps 2-4 if req'd
7. Tighten 7/16"AF nut whilst holding bolt inplace

Also check the Throw Out nuts are allowing the clutch rod to push on the Throw out bearing and not "bottoming out" before it disengages.

DO NOT BEND THE ARM TO INCREASE CLUTCH TRAVEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy Motoring

thought I'd check out the clutch arm adjustment, and there's no movement between the clutch arm and the adjustment bolt in the clutch cover when I move the arm by hand. The book says there should be a small gap (1.24mm or something).

So my question is, what would the symptoms be without having this gap? Anything like I've described? I feel like I want to make the takeup point higher by adjusting the bolt out more, but already don't have a gap there..

I've noticed occasionally my gear changes have been a bit difficult and 'clunky' lately, on all gears. Sometimes it's fine and other times I'm needing to double clutch going down or up a gear.

Why can't you bend the clutch arm to increase clutch travel?

What is likely to happen if I haven't got this gap? Does it mean the clutch is partially engaged all the time, therefore causing undue wear to the throwout bearing?

Is there an easy way to determine if the throwout bearing is sitting on the clutch diaphragm all the time?
Should there be an obvious additional noise?

Author:	BBart [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:43 am ]
Post subject:	Clutch adjustment
Hi! I've noticed occasionally my gear changes have been a bit difficult and 'clunky' lately, on all gears. Sometimes it's fine and other times I'm needing to double clutch going down or up a gear. I thought I'd check out the clutch arm adjustment, and there's no movement between the clutch arm and the adjustment bolt in the clutch cover when I move the arm by hand. The book says there should be a small gap (1.24mm or something). So my question is, what would the symptoms be without having this gap? Anything like I've described? I feel like I want to make the takeup point higher by adjusting the bolt out more, but already don't have a gap there.. I did have to get the throwout bearing replaced recently. I could go back and get Simon Young to check the adjustment, but then what would I be learning? Have a go, then take it to him if I stuff it up By the way, it's a '69 1100 engine.. Cheers!

Author:	Mini_Special [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:32 pm ]
Post subject:
1. Remove spring 2. Undo 7/16" AF nut whilst holding 7/16" af bolt 3. Screw bolt in till gap appears 4. Attach spring 5. Check clutch feel 6. Repeat steps 2-4 if req'd 7. Tighten 7/16"AF nut whilst holding bolt inplace Also check the Throw Out nuts are allowing the clutch rod to push on the Throw out bearing and not "bottoming out" before it disengages. DO NOT BEND THE ARM TO INCREASE CLUTCH TRAVEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy Motoring

Author:	simon k [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:
Mini_Special wrote: 1. Remove spring 2. Undo 7/16" AF nut whilst holding 7/16" af bolt 3. Screw bolt in till gap appears 4. Attach spring 5. Check clutch feel 6. Repeat steps 2-4 if req'd 7. Tighten 7/16"AF nut whilst holding bolt inplace you're going to give less pedal if you screw the bolt in Mini_Special wrote: Also check the Throw Out nuts are allowing the clutch rod to push on the Throw out bearing and not "bottoming out" before it disengages. DO NOT BEND THE ARM TO INCREASE CLUTCH TRAVEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy Motoring true BBart wrote: thought I'd check out the clutch arm adjustment, and there's no movement between the clutch arm and the adjustment bolt in the clutch cover when I move the arm by hand. The book says there should be a small gap (1.24mm or something). So my question is, what would the symptoms be without having this gap? Anything like I've described? I feel like I want to make the takeup point higher by adjusting the bolt out more, but already don't have a gap there.. I often find I need to have the bolt in contact with the arm to get the pedal where I want - I think that's the way it is at the moment, but I did change my slave cylinder recently and I can't remember - it does need adjusting - one of my jobs for Saturday BBart wrote: I've noticed occasionally my gear changes have been a bit difficult and 'clunky' lately, on all gears. Sometimes it's fine and other times I'm needing to double clutch going down or up a gear. I wonder whether you've got some air in there somewhere, needing to pump it is a sign that the hydraulics aren't right

Author:	Mini_Special [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:
sorry gurls i forgot a few steps and used In where as i should ahve used ADJUST 2.5. Remove Throw out nuts 2.6 Force arm towards guard and then undo bolt till it makes contact and then go in 2 flats of bolt. 2.7. Lightly do up nut to hold bolt in place 4.1 . have assistant pump pedal to see if arm is moving correctly

Author:	BBart [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:36 pm ]
Post subject:
Yeah that's the point. I feel like I need to screw the bolt out rather than in, but already haven't got a gap there (bolt is already hard in contact with arm).. Is it likely to cause any problems if I screw the bolt out further? I don't want the throw out bearing to be slightly engaged all the time, as I've already had to get that replaced recently. I suppose I could give it a go tonight and if it doesn't improve things try bleeding the clutch..?

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Clutch adjustment https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52420	Page 1 of 3

Author:	Mini_Special [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:
IF the gap is already present or non existant and the clucth is still not Engaging whenthe pedal is fully depressed there are a number of other things to look at. Air in system Worm ball at end of clutch arm Worn pivot points on Clutch arm Slave need to be re-kitted Master needs to be re-kitted Flexible line may need replacing Clutch plate may be at MIN thickness I generally remove the throwout nuts as they usually impede the operation of most Tightwad owners clutches, and it can give you a little bit more adjustment before replacement is req'd

Author:	850man [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:55 pm ]
Post subject:
Why can't you bend the clutch arm to increase clutch travel?

Author:	simon k [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:04 pm ]
Post subject:
850man wrote: Why can't you bend the clutch arm to increase clutch travel? cos it's a dodgy way to avoid an actual problem with something else

Author:	BALLISTIC [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:14 pm ]
Post subject:
850man wrote: Why can't you bend the clutch arm to increase clutch travel? It puts the push rod at an angle and when the clutch system is used it causes the piston in the slave to wear the side of the bore of the slave cylinder due to the load put on it. A better option if needed (short term fix) is to put a longer pushrod in if required.

Author:	BBart [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:27 pm ]
Post subject:
Ok, after work I adjusted the bolt against the clutch arm out a little, and from a relatively short test It seems to have fixed the problem. I'll test it better later. My real question here is: Why do the books indicate that there must be a 0.06 inch gap between the adjustment bolt and the clutch arm (when the arm is pushed outwards by hand)? What is the purpose of this gap? What is likely to happen if I haven't got this gap? Does it mean the clutch is partially engaged all the time, therefore causing undue wear to the throwout bearing? Thanks for your help

Author:	Morris 1100 [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:30 pm ]
Post subject:
BBart wrote: What is likely to happen if I haven't got this gap? Does it mean the clutch is partially engaged all the time, therefore causing undue wear to the throwout bearing? Yes.

Author:	Drexxle [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:54 pm ]
Post subject:
The gap is meant for NEW PARTS, if you have OLD parts then you already have play in them, especially in the plunger and often in the housing where the plunger slides through. If everything is NEW, then set the gap otherwise the thrust bearing will sit on the clutch diaphram, will make noise and wear out faster. If you have play in the plunger (in my case i did), you will adjust the arm out further. If you adjust the arm out to far, you will snap the ball off the end of the clutch arm (as i did last week). The plunger is the IMPORTANT bit here, the arm wont wear as much as the plunger (where the ball sits in). Check the plunger for excessive wear. If its got to much play in it then replace it. If you still have problems after checking all of these things as mentioned earlier DO NOT bend the clutch arm, you are supposed to put spacers between the plunger and the thrust bearing on the INSIDE of the casing.

Author:	BBart [ Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:42 pm ]
Post subject:
Follow up: well this adjustment has definitely fixed the 'clunky' gear changes, smooth as silk now Is there an easy way to determine if the throwout bearing is sitting on the clutch diaphragm all the time? Should there be an obvious additional noise? I can't really notice anything, but the throwout bearing has been replaced recently.. Thanks!

Author:	BALLISTIC [ Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:07 pm ]
Post subject:
BBart wrote: Is there an easy way to determine if the throwout bearing is sitting on the clutch diaphragm all the time? Should there be an obvious additional noise? If the bearing it touching the diaphragm there will be an additional noise from the throw out bearing.

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Author:	Morris 1100 [ Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:21 pm ]
Post subject:
With the motor running grab the clutch arm and pull it outwards and see if the bearing starts to make a slight whirring noise. (You need to listen carefully) You could also listen with a screwdriver. Place a long screwdriver against the throwout plunger nuts and let the handle of the screwdriver touch your ear (or the side of your head). You should be able to hear the bearing spinning if it is spinning.