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Some progress - Only to stop rusting
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Author:  rampage101 [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:06 am ]
Post subject:  Some progress - Only to stop rusting
Hi guys,

Currently my mini is just a shell mostly cleared back to bear metal, and I've just got some etch primer and 2-pac high-fill primer & hardner. Now I intend to somewhat spray most of the car, as everytime I come back to it a little surface rust has developed, like hand prints etc.

The car has 2 rust holes that I want to fix so I can then paint, and i was wandering if fibreglass will be ok. They holes are at the bottom of the rear seat storage bins and goes all the way to the outside of the car. (Will get pics). If I was to use fibreglass how would I go about it??


EDIT:
http://members.dodo.com.au/~thechairman ... oct_06.jpg
You can see it in this picture. As you go towards the back of the car its just before the wheel arch starts..
Author:  J_A_M [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Looks like you are making good progress there. Just remember, it always looks worse before it gets better.

With the rust hand prints......most people don't know that you excrete a form of acid when you sweat. This rusts metal, depending on how much your body excretes (I have it really bad). If you sand to bare metal, clean it straight after with something like Prepsol. I bought a jumbo size drum of Prepsol and wiped over every surface after sanding JAM.

Those that don't do this, end up with really nice paint jobs....but with bubbling (how many of these have you seen!). It comes back to a quality paint job being 90% prep!!!!!

I am a fan of fibreglass. I think it repels moisture a bit better than body filler. Repairing holes with fibreglass can be really good if you can fill the hole with resin. It sets rock hard and does a good job. If you have a hole in a panel, with nothing behind it, fibreglassing can be a little tricky. I would glass behind the hole, then in the hole from the top, in a 2 part process.

You can do this with your rust, but from your description you will need to do it twice (one on the outer car skin, and one on the inner storage bin skin)

8)
Author:  rampage101 [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:54 am ]
Post subject: 
Cool, thanks for the info.

Ok, the hole is only on the outside of the car, like its a hole that only goes through the one sheet of metal. ie. if I poured liquid into the storage bin, it would only come out the hole on the side of the car and spill on the ground. So if I fibreglass a sheet of fibreglass onto the inside of the panel, then let that dry and then fibreglass the hole? Just with resin or should I cut some matt up and fit in there?
Author:  Fruity [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 
I had to use Prepsol too, cause of someone's sweaty prints all over my shell :roll: Beast..

How big a hole before you consider using fibreglass?
Author:  Flashback [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 11:05 am ]
Post subject: 
When my shell was back to bare metal I used a product called Foscote (I think! - will check later) which I just wiped on (similar to prepsol) It stopped any rust forming until it was painted.
Author:  J_A_M [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 11:31 am ]
Post subject: 
rampage101 wrote:
So if I fibreglass a sheet of fibreglass onto the inside of the panel, then let that dry and then fibreglass the hole? Just with resin or should I cut some matt up and fit in there?


How big is the hole? 10c piece? 20c piece?

For a tenner you can glass the inside then resin fill the outer skin. For a 20 you might need something to bind the resin together.
Author:  bnicho [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 11:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Ummm, what's wrong with welding up the rust properly...
:?
Author:  rampage101 [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nothing, provided you have access to or can afford a Mig welder, in which both cases I can't. Although I am going to HAVE to get one to replace the floor pan. But for now I would be happy with just fibreglass on these 2 holes, as the storage bins will be covered or whatever so the inside will look fine, and the outsite should be good too.

Both holes are probably about 20c from memory, I havn't actually looked at them for a couple of weeks :oops:
Author:  benjamin [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
you can get a gassless mig from supercheap real cheap :)
Author:  rampage101 [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ooh, just got me a spray gun, High Volume Low Pressure, comes with 2 nozzels, 1.8 (or 1.5mm??) and 2.0mm. Has its own regualtor, gravity fed. $110. Nothing too flash, but hopefully it will work good.

Any other tips: (2 pac painting btw)

1. Sand area back with block sanding with soapy water.
2. Wash with soapy water.
3. Clean with prepsol
4. Clean with metho
5. Apply etch primer
6. Light sand then apply high-fill primer?? (or do I skip the sanding)
Author:  bnicho [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've never owned or used a Mig. Bought an Arc welder for $50 at a garage sale. It works okay on thick old Mini metal with the amps turned right down and the thinnest rods. Would not work on a modern car due to the thinner metal.
Author:  Zizzle [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hire a mig?

Does anyone have links to any other paint & prep sites or threads on ausmini? I hopefully will be at that stage soon, and have next to zero experience.
Author:  min13k [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 1:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
1. Sand area back with block sanding with soapy water.
2. Wash with soapy water.
3. Clean with prepsol
4. Clean with metho
5. Apply etch primer
6. Light sand then apply high-fill primer?? (or do I skip the sanding)


is step 4 safe in moree???
makka
Author:  rampage101 [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 2:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
min13k wrote:
is step 4 safe in moree???
makka


Why wouldn't it be?? Becuase of the heat? Or just the druggos? :?
Author:  min13k [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 2:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
no the aborigani's
hey bloke got some metho
makka

btw i'm not racist i hate every one equally
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