hey guys

(twin 1 1/4 carby setup)

still trying to diagnose jesters problems, and through what i can tell (from my very limited mechanical know-how ) is that there is something very wrong with the carbys. i've left the car for a few weeks while i was busy doing uni work, and the fluid that is in the dash pots (i think thats what its called) seems to always be drained down to below the recommended level.

ive also noticed there is also some resistance on the RHS carby throwt and requires a bit of effort to push up (in comparison to the LHS)

also from my previous threads discussion some people have suggested that the car is only running on 1 carby....oh and it was running VERY rich previously but was still drivable

the car runs VERY rough, and struggles to rev...i just dont know how to describe it....but it sounds like its missing and wont rev. I've roadtested the car and i top out at around 50km/h....and thats not being kind to the car...(ie revving the tits off it)

not sure whats actually wrong with carbys, but perhaps one of the gaskets has gone or something??

all i know is im seriously getting the $h!ts with the car

anyone have any ideas of what i should be doing to solve this problem

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00' Forester GT

Yes dont ask Tiny to help you fix your carby problem

Were they set up properly since they have been on your car? Have they been synchronised? what condition are the throttle shafts in? What fluid are you using in the dash pots?

I'd like to be able to help fix Jester but i wont be up that way for a few months yet

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

when they were first put on my car, the guys set it up a tad rich

not sure if they've been syncronised...i would presume so, when i got them to set it up for the car, there was full kits put through the carbys and throttle shafts redone etc...

but that was over a year ago or so..and i cant quite remember too many details

fluid in the dash pots is some castrol ATF...not sure on the grade or anything.

how can i check the throttle shafts' condition?....i read somewhere about wriggling them or something?!?

Cheers
Lachie- N00B-ness

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00' Forester GT

that's your number 1 problem right there, the car will never be right unless the carbs are in sync



they were right - if it takes effort for you to push the dashpot up, then it takes the same effort for the motor

first thing to do, and before fiddling with worn shafts, which really only effect the idle, is to get the pistons acting the same

take the dashpots off both carbs, and take the pistons out - at this point, make sure you keep the parts for each side identifiable - a texta mark, whatever

clean the insides of the dashpots, and the outer rim of the pistons with some petrol or other solvent, get them really clean. Slide the pistons inside the dashpots and check that they feel clean and not sticking.

if they're sticking or feel gritty, get some kitchen ajax powder, make a thick paste and smear some inside the dashpot and around the piston rim, put the piston in and gently work it in and out and around - all the way in, and out, turning it as you go - then clean the ajax out, and check that it's moving freely. When you do this - be gentle with it, it's soft alloy, doesn't take much to clean it up.

When you've got both of them moving freely, get some blu-tack, and if the pistons have holes in the bottom of them, plug the holes up (remove the blu-tack after you've done this bit). Put the pistons inside their respective dashpots, hold them up the right way with the piston all the way up inside the dashpot, and let it fall down into your hand - DON'T DROP THEM ON THE FLOOR/BENCH/ANYTHING!

if they fall at very different rates, swap the pistons over, and try it again - mix and match parts that give you both pistons falling at the same rate.

When you've done that, put them back together and see what's what

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

hmmmm looks like i have a big free weekend ahead of me...(im supposed to be doing SOME assignment work )

cheers lads ill see how i go, but be prepared for some stupid questions if i get stuck

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00' Forester GT

oh and also im not quite sure what grade the ATF im using in the carbys is....is there any that i SHOULDN'T be using??
i know its a Castrol ATF but i havent got the bottle in front of me..

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00' Forester GT

Generally red ATF is all about the same grade. Besides, it doesn't have a grade like engine oil. As long as its the same type in both carbys.

Like Simon reccomended the drop rates should be very close. Are the springs the same?

Check the needle and seat in both carbs, easy way is to pull off the resivour lid, put a bit of hose on the inlet, turn the lid upside down and you shouldn't be able to blow through the hose.

Old floats can also leak, so if/when you take the resivour lids off check that they have no fuel in them, shining a torch through the float should show it up.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

the dashpot oil doesn't have an impact on the actual mixture, only the progression from one point of the needle to the another.

Once the carbs are set up correctly, and the car is running with the right fuel/air ratio, then you can play with the dashpot oil, for now, ignore it completely

also, do you have a workshop manual? the procedure for synchronising the carbs is spelled out in there, you can also look at BIAM's write-up on how to set up twins properly

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Make sure the needle is sitting correctly in the Piston

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It