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Leighton
 Post subject: ball joints and studs
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:52 am 
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998cc
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whats the best way to seperate the ball joint hub (behind the drum) from the wheel stud holder (insert real name here.......................)

im stuck...

cheers

leighton

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 10:17 am 
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I screw a slide hammer onto 1 wheel stud. :wink:

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Leighton
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:26 pm 
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do i have to remove the wheel bearings and seals first?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:39 pm 
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Take off the hub nut and brake drum, then the drive flange (with studs) pulls out of the swivel hub (with balljoints) with slide hammer.
Sometimes the outer bearing comes too, and you have to grind or pull it off the drive flange afterwards.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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gafmo
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:43 pm 
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If you have a old Drum sitting around put on backwards with wheel nuts with around 4 threads and try and slide it out as per Doc's method

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850man
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:46 pm 
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I gather you are talking about the drive flange? After removing the CV joint, tap the drive flange out from behind with a appropriately sized drift. I made mine out of bar stock in a lathe, it end is machined down to fit inside the drive flange where the CV usually is. The inner race of the wheel bearing often gets suck on the flange shaft and all the balls fall out, so be prepared to replace the wheel bearings if required.
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:53 pm 
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Be careful bashing it out this way, is fine with a fitted mandrel like that but if you use a BFH and just any old drift, you will stuff the end of the drive flange....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Leighton
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 2:10 pm 
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ive got the drive flange down to about halfway inside the hub now there looks to be a spacer or what i assume to be a spacer, stopping any downward movement. what now?

is the hole spline and bearing assembly tapered?


thanks for the tips.

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:08 pm 
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Nope all parallel, it should knock right out.

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