Hi Everybody,

I noticed that the rear wheel bearings on the passenger side on Animal were a bit 'sloppy', so pulled the hub off to have a look.

The reason they were sloppy was the nut was loose. Tighten it up a bit and the hub locks solid.

You can tighten it up finger tight and the hub gets very stiff. a tiny bit more with a socket and extension bar (no leverage, either by bar or ratchet) and it is enough to lock it up.

The bearings are all brand new, well greased etc, the outer bearing is a taper roller style. What are the things to check, how to fix etc.

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

I thought the inner bearing was taper-roller too, and supplied as a matched-set, spacer and all. Maybe you can shim the spacer up to obtain the required pre-load.

This is on the rear, and I guess I don't actually know how they go together at this point, so some basics and a diagram (crayon accepted ) for me would be great!

Cheers
Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Bean, where are you?

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If locking up, either there is no spacer, or else the spacer is the wrong width (too narrow).
This happens with front kits lately, back too probably.
See my tapered roller bearing thread in how-to forum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi,
I had this a while ago on the rears. I added a shim to either side and corrected the problem but I have heard that some folk biff the spacer and treat the hubs like regular wheel bearings. What does Dr Mini think of that idea?

Regards
Al

Yes there's nothing wrong with doing that at the back, IMO, the nuts are pinned anyway and it's not a CV assembly that has to be kept tight.
Think of it as like a typical front wheel hub for a RWD car, except the bearings are same inner and outer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc,

I read your 'how-to' (Good read, Thanks! ) And am still a little confused.

If the spacer is too wide, wouldn't this cause the binding, as the outer bearing becomes 'clamped' in the hub against it's race as the nut is tightened??

And therefore if it too thin, it won't tighten enough and there will be slop?

But youre how to descibes the opposite?

Anyone able to give me a basic guide to how these bits are supposed to work (speak slowly now!)?

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

No, see with tapered bearings, if the spacer in the middle is too thing, then its going to have to crush the bearings before they seat up against the spacer, so because its tightening it so much its locking the bearings in there carriers. Where as if its too big (the spacer) then the nut will feel like it torque's up correctly, but because the bearings are done up tight with the spacer but not tight enough for the hub, there is your freeplay.

Starting to make sense, I think.

Anyone want to break out those crayons for me?


Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

See here for some illustrations:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapered_roller_bearing
Or search google images:
tapered roller bearing

Its mainly because of the taper that causes this, because you need teh spacer in the middle so it doesn't try and pull the actual bearing too far into the bearing seat.

I've used crank shims, the ones used under the timing gear pulley, to set up rear tapered roller bearings. It was locking up as Matt describes, 2 shims did the trick.

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Steve

Thanks Steve, Ken told me the same tip, will be extracting some from the old motor in the shed soon!

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Yep, Ken and I did it on my car at Mini Automotive

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Steve

woo hoo - search worked!

I had the same problem, pinched a pair of crank shims off my spare motor's crank, fixed!

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