hi all again.
getting ready to install the engine back into the car.
ive got the standard mounts..plus new bolts etc..
just woundering if people have used the mounts with the nut welded to it ??
have heared mixed reports...that they are good and they make it harder.
as ive allready got new mounts i was just going to weld the nuts onto the mount
if people say they are good....if not ill just do it the old way.

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

The Mini world is split in two...
Those who use nuts and bolts, and those who've tack welded nuts to the mounts for the last 40 years (like me).

But, we are all united when it comes to the newer captive nut mounts, they are rubbish- because
1. They are too thick. You need a crowbar and some big mates to line them up.
2. The captive nuts (rivnuts) are made of cheese, and their threads strip real easy.


Quinton Hazell standard mounts are a bit thicker than the originals too.

Buy genuine Rover mounts, it's worth it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is also a big difference in the standard mounts - you need the genuine Rover one to fit properly - the ones generally available are out by as much as half a hole.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Definitely captive nuts. Although I'm not sure why people have had the problem with the off the shelf ones. I bought mine a while ago from a grade and they have been fine. The engine has been in and out a few times and lines up perfectly.

Maybe I got the only set that wasn't too thick!

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Mister White Keys
"He who has the most toys, Wins"

1963 Austin Countryman Woody
1964 Morris 850 Van
1967 Austin Countryman
1975 Range Rover 2 Door
2004 Subaru Forester XT
2015 Potts Teardrop Camper
RIP 1990 Citroen BX 16Valve

Bah, you don't need captive nuts anyway. A little trick I've used for years is to wedge the bolt into the open end of a spanner using a little fragment of rag, then maneuver it into the hole. Takes a minute or two, easy peasy

I reckon the bolt should always be on the inside of the mount anyway, that way if the nut comes undone there's less chance of losing the bolt.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Another good method is put a cable tie around the bolt head.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

welded nuts

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

ok...so captive nuts are crap .....what about welding the original nuts to the mount??like
drmini suggested??
i think ill go this rute

also do the bolts go from the bottom up and the nut or does the bolt go threw the mount and the nut undernieth.....its been three years since ive removed the engine...

do i bolt the engine mounts to the car first them lower the engine and them bolt them up or do i bolt the mounts to the engine and lower it into car ???

yes yes i know im a doofus....

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

Add the mounts to the engine first and then lower the engine into the subframe. It's much easier this way.

Whichever way you put the bolts through it does not matter much. I will do either way depending on the direction fo the wind and the phase of the moon. Both ways work well......If you are going to weld the nuts onto the engine mounts, then this is a moot point.

Align the holes to the subframe once the engine is lowered in by using a phillips screwdriver through the hole align the mount up to the subframe.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I have been married for 18 years - my nuts are certainly captive

and probably stripped, rusty and about to fall off

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

hahahahaha.....ive been married for only 2 years now.....so mine are still in the non rusty section. ...not loking forward to them droping off though..

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

If the nuts are attached to the mounts then the bolts have to be inserted perfectly straight. There's NO flexibility and they make the job a PITA.

Use rag/paper to jam the bolt into a ring spanner and insert it from the inside. I've never had a nut fall off but......

Cheers, Ian

hmmm Myself I will have to do this in the future for the Van anway and I Know where you are with you build I would take the Subby out and fit the motor to the "Supported" Sub Frame. this way you have room. I will be using the Rover mounds and jsut ensure they have new bolts spring washers and nuts. Then lower the body onto the subframe and Subby

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

i realy cant be buggered to take the frame off again......
its taken me this long just to get it to this stage..
i know it makes the job easier but ill try to do it the old fasioned way first threw the engine bay.
ill get the nuts welded on and give it a go...ill let you all know how i go...

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....