Hi all

As the heading suggests i am wandering what the differences are between auto and manual 1275 engines.

Also what must be done to convert from auto to manual. I believe it is not difficult.

Thanks

One is automatic and the other is manual, they both have 4 forward gears, the auto requires a different subframe as it is a wider engine around the gear box.
Check this link out http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1461

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Depends on how you would rate "difficult". If taking engine apart and machining the block to accept a manual oil pump is easy then it's not difficult...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

so basically, "if you find threading a camel through the eye of a needle easy, then its not difficult"?

I've done a couple from auto to manual and it's not difficult, as I said in the link.
It would be harder to go the other way (need to machine the block cavity deeper for the BIG auto oil pump) but that's not impossible either.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

They`re easy

Fit the adaptor plate into the oil pump cavity (i have them in stock)
drill 2 holes in the block (one for the oil gallery through into the adaptor plate & one for the dip stick hoie
remove the oil pressure limit valve "seat" & seal up the 2 cross holes & re-fit it

job done

easy-peasy

i can`t count how many i`ve done, but it is a full engine strip down to ac complish the job

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

arent auto boxes "rare" (and yes I use the term loosely) that it would be a shame to convert one over? Surely you would just remove/replace the engine with a manual?

Auto boxes are rarer because many have died, RIP.
Lots of 1275 auto blocks are/were being used as doorstops so they are likely candidates for conversion, as supplies of 1275 manual blocks dries up. BTW the 1275 auto crank, rods etc are the same as a manual. But you need a manual primary gear.

As for the 998 autos, it's not worth the trouble converting one.. just grab another manual block off the pile in the corner.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the replies.

My last question was going to be whether the crankshaft is different . But drmini has already answered that.

I will probably be scrapping a working auto to use this block.Is there really any value in the auto? Should i keep looking for a manual block.I initially decided to use this auto block because i can get it at the right price.

Any comments?

Thanks again

Autos can cost a lot to fix up, and many shops won't touch them.
A manual box is more satisfying to drive, IMO.

One last question though- how old is it?
Late Rover auto blocks need much more machining to convert, as I said at the end of that how-to link.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks doc i did see your comments on the rover blocks in the how to section. This is a 69 1300 so shouldn't be any problems.

I am aware of the problems and expence with the autos also.This one has receipts for a forward clutch overhaul in 2002 and has done 2000 miles since.Still looks like it's going to the scrap heap.