Hi, pulled out my subframes, going to send them for sandblasting and then I want to repray - what paint should I use? Is there any particular type/brand that is best for under the car?

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It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!

sub-frame black?

Theres always powdercoating, im planing on doing that on mine not too sure on prices though but apperently its not crazy

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I'm grew up on the street, not the hood, the sesame st

POR15. Did mine, they came up a treat. Tough & easy to apply by brush or spray. I brushed mine as I'm not bothered about any brush marks and you can get it into the narrow cavities quite well.

Others will recommend alternatives, like powder coating as above, but POR15 you can do at home and get a great result. If you're doing a concours resto, powder coating may be more suitable. Not sure if you can successfully touch it up though.

I powdercoated and although the finish is great i would por15 next time i do it for the reasons below:

1. It's easy to scratch off bits, especially when jacking your mini up from subframe.

2. You can't easily touch up sections, it's subframe out and get it coated again.

It is cheap though and looks good but painting of por15 is more practical.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I just use an industrial 2pac from debeers, no priming just spray it on, muxh cheaaper than the PORs and easier to use

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

I get mine done in industrial marine 2 pak and primer.
Good stuff, it's tough as nails.

I POR15 mini with a brush for the reasons above...sure ain't going to Rust and less likely to chip and will always look great

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

POR15 on the front and Killrust epoxy spray can on the rear

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

i was going to get my subbies powder coated after mini50 i might do the por 15 thing

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

Great thanks for all the info - where do we get some POR15 from?

_________________
It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I did mine in POR 15 also and came up great andreally hard. Not cheap but a great job if you follow directions and give it 2 x coats
Regards
Brian

Thanks guys very helpful

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It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!

I used POR15 as well...

My experiences? It was expensive and takes a week to get off your skin (really, seriously, don't screw around with this stuff). It did the job nicely and is as hard as diamond.
Normal chassis black and epoxy paint will go dull and fall away in a few years so if you paint you should consider a high quality product like this.

I powder coated everything last time I restored a car (cost 300 for everything including subframes all at once in a big hit in satin black), this time I POR15'd to see how it would come out.

Powder coating is a great idea, I think I would powder coat again next time as once you add up the costs (86 dollars for chassis black, 30 dollar supercheap paint gun (throw it away, don't even bother trying to clean it I say) the overspray issues in the yard, hassles with dust and waiting for it to dry, concerns with the neighbors reactions to the overspray, clean up, set up etc etc) I think I would pay a powder coater to provide a perfect finish and save myself the stress. After 12 years there was very little damage, and a sponge would make it look new again. This was in the Darwin tropics.

Brushing provides a medium to good finish as it self levels as it dries. Everything must be spotless of grease before you start or their will be big dramas. Prime if you can, I used normal etch primer, not the POR product and had no problems. POR does not like bare zinc, not at all. It will run away like water from it, and fall straight off if you get it to stick to it and dry.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.