hi team ausmini,
I currently have the clutch slave cylinder removed and would like to remove the clutch arm to give it a bit of a clean up. Is it a case of just removing the r clip and pin then extracting the arm? I'm just unsure if i remove it whether or not it has tension that will prevent me from re-inserting it.
regards Brian

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

Yes, remove as you describe. nothing will move and you just re-insert the arm when you've finished ... However, I'm wondering what you need the "clean up"???

Cheers, Ian

Ian,thanks for the reply. i'm removing it for the purpose of repainting some may say that's way to anal but i just like to tidy things as i go.
thanks again.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

A man after my own heart.. I was just concerned that there was a "mess" needed to be cleaned up. If there was I was interested in what it might be.

Cheers, Ian

first off. see if its bent. Also take a pic for us of the ball down the bottom as the wear and the guys that know all will tell you how good it is. And I agree get it looking prrrretty...Black, gold, Bling

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

hey gafmo, why are you always asking for pics of peoples balls?
Sorry couldn't help myself

Don't forget to grease the ball up before putting it back in and also invest in a new clevis pin which will go a long way to increasing clutch travel.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Do you mean like this one. I have three arms and they all have the same bend (I am guessing the arm should be straight?)

Is it worth paying double for an original item or are the copies OK?

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Good points Lillee
And Yes Dave the three of your are bent then

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Mini Dave love that engine bay neat and sweet.

Gafmo will try and take a pick, but on closer inspection i may need to replace the arm as the ball is worn and not as semetrical as i first thought. I just put the micrometer on it and it shows up as having 25 thou
variation in the ball diameter. John Smidt warned me that this may be a possible issue and yep he was right.

Lillee new pins are definately on the list as the top pin was frozen that bad i had to drill it out. Bought some new R clips 30c each.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

You will notice that the one in this photo is wider than the other one, the narrow ones are the early types so it is always a good idea to check the ball on the bottom if you have a narrow type, ( I am talking about Clutch arms ) Having said that the early ones are better made so they do last longer than the ones you can buy these days

Consider the turned section at the end including the ball.
Has anyone ever 'reconditioned' this by turning a replica of original, welding it onto the arm then hardening it?
Or is a new arm cheap enough to make it not worth the effort?
I once had the ball snap off the end of an arm, made for a nice drive home...

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

I have tried TIG welding the end bit when cracked. It was done properly by a CIGWELD welding rep, but it still only lasted 3 months.
The whole arm is a high carbon alloy steel, hardened at the end and not really weldable. There is an awful lot of stress on that bit where it is thin.

I agree with John, the original thin arms are better made = last longer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.