Hi Guy's,
This weekend i'm heading to Canberra to look at a Mini cooper S (Mk1).The car is in a pretty bad way as it hasn't been driven for over 20 yrs and has been sitting in a farm shed.Here's the catch,no I.D plate.(I thought it would be impossible to rego with no body numbers)
It has Cooper s parts i.e. genuine engine,head,gearbox,dash,grill,front disc brakes,wheels and some interior.Problem is he told me he replaced the steering column with a Mini K and the only chassis numbers he can read are # 2s41888.
(A Mk2 or tampered with Mini K i.e the 1 restamped to make a 4)
He is an older man who swears it's genuine.I have my doubt's,but I need to go to Canberra on business.
Can anyone help me with other way's of identifing it as a Cooper S ?
Special drillings,holes / rivets,anything that they had,that other models didn't.
Thanks so much for any help, I know you've probably answered this a thousand times.
Cheers
Brendan

If you don't get the right answers before it's time for you to go and have a look at it, try the search function http://www.ausmini.com/forums/search.php

This topic has come up so many times.....I wouldn't want to start explaining the real S traits, as I would probably be shot down in flames by the hardcore S fanatics.

There are a couple of things I can think of straight away,

There should be right petrol tank brackets welded to the shell, not rivetted. (I think this also means a small strenghtening piece inside the shell behing the rear seat upright).

Boot board brackets (i believe these are rivetted)

Look for a welded heater bracket under the switch panel (although K's may have these too, I'm not sure)

Check for the breather hole under the left rear seat

If the right tank is missing, check for the filler hole to be factory punched (ie not cut out later with a jigsaw etc.)

& check if there is a flattened area behind the grill that the oil coller bracket bolted to, and the diagonal brace (although I've seen K's with the diagonal brace, but only s's with the oil cooler bracket)

All Aussie Ss were hydro, check for hydro pressings in floor pan etc

Cheers
Matt

Early S's & Deluxes had no hydro pressings in floorpan, the pipes ran along the floor with little protection plates fitted at ends of floorpan.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ta Dr,

It's good to know. When did they start to be Hydro?

Matt

All Oz made S's were hydro, `65 on. Floor pan pressings came in `67 I think.
My `66? Deluxe shell in Barney was hydro, but didn't have the floor pressings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if it's a '69 MK2, the early ones didn't have any compliance plates on them, the number on the rad shroud should be YG2S4 (then your 1888) - that number is pretty early so it could be one without the plate... do the date check on the boot lock, wiper motor and the fuse holder.

a mini K steering column should be the same as a MK2, but the early MK2's had a lot of MK1 stuff on them, so he probably swapped the MK1 one for a MK2 - no biggie

have a look on the firewall for the captive nuts that hold the dash in place, under the drivers side one, (half way up the dash panel, about 4 inches out from the speedo cutout) there should be a body number stamped about where you'd normally see the compliance plate on a MK1 - that body number should be around the 1380 mark. No doubt you'll have to clear some crud off to find it (take a can of degreaser with you and some rags). The number on the firewall of my July '70 MK2 is 510 less than the YG2S4 number

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Did I remember someone mentioning tabs near the grill that were used to mount the oil cooler in the cooper S ? Memory not too good

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Apart from the info re differences others have pointed out there should be a production code, otherwise known as a Body CUM number-listed for Internal use only (No I don't know what CUM means but I doubt it has anything to do with sex), stamped on the body along with the other codes. It is most likely on the radiator shroud but could be on the firewall or the rear bonnet drain channel (Not 100% certain of the firewall or drain channel locations). The code is or should be
M2
06
This code was used for MK1,2 Cooper 'S' cars and possibly??? for 997 and 998 Cooper cars.
Clubman GT cars used
M2
23
and it was stamped on the firewall behind the Clutch master cylinder.
Some other Minis used
M2
05
So if you can find M2 above 06 stamped somewhere then it's probably a genuine car but you need to also check the other differences. If it's a 69 build car it won't have any ID plate unless it was built towards the end of 69. Cars built at the end of 69 on had ADR plates fixed to the firewall box section behind the brake booster. The ADR plates show the model code and car number YG2S4 ****.( Note that there is no K in the model code as this was deleted for MK2 cars. At least on cars with ADR plates) Any number above 2500 is suspect as there were only 2419? MK2 cars built. Note - CAR numbers start from 501 and body numbers from 001. The last 113 or so cars had the lift up door handles. Others have more accurate info re number of cars actually built. CAR numbers in the 1400 range were built in early 70.
The number stamped on the firewall mentioned by SKSSGN is the CAR number. The number stamped on the radiator surround is the BODY number. Car numbers are approx 500 less than body numbers.
Despite what Matt68 says the RH tank mounting bracket on the rear seat bulkhead is not welded but held on by 4 flat headed studs - not bolts.
Clubman GT cars or at least mine have the bracket welded.
The boot board support brackets are pop riveted in place. The floor pan should have provision for the full length skid plates. Other things to look for are 7 tab strips for the tank breathers - 2 on each side plus 3 under the rear parcel shelf. Extra holes in the boot floor for the fuel pump wiring and RH tank breather and the RH tank securing strap. RH tank support bracket spot welded to floor under tank. Tab on the underside of the boot floor above the fuel pump to secure the fuel pump breather pipe before it goes to the breather under the LH rear seat. Spot welded flair metal strips welded on the underside of the wheel arch openings - so they can rub at the front. The body and interior are basically Mini K but with the 130 MPH speedo. Instruments should be matt finish med/dark grey not gloss black as per MK1. Plastic bodied heater. Instrument panel with turn indicators as per Mini K. Mini K shorter steering column with dished wheel.


Hope this helps
RonR

Thanks for the information,Guy's.
Sorry I haven't responded earlier,but I've been interstate,if fact I'm still there,
Cheers

Any additional info on your copper S

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I always said,I would never buy a car off EBay, as I'd always like to inspect it.At this stage,I haven't even laid eye's on it.(apart from pictures)
It's going to be a very slow and detailed restoration, so my major concern was the numbers were correct above the condition.
Normally against my beliefs,but I was desparate.
The owner went to the trouble of sending a lot of pictures of the items, other members told me to look for.He told me it is a guaranteed Cooper S and I haven't a reason not to believe him.I'm certainly going to take a heap of photo's, so i'll post them on the site in the next few week's.I know enough on cars, but not alot on Coopers,so I'll ask a few questions to members that do know.The worse part, is the wait until I pick it up.

When do you get Her and put some of the picks you recieved

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

did you min one on ebay ..... he he he if so i think that was the one that arron was bidding on lol
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Yes i certainly was... thats ok though, you wanted it more than i did.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4533536091&ssPageName=STRK:MEDW:IT


Thats the car, Just so you know, it looks to be a genuine police cooper s more like a 65 that a 64, has all the right bits. It has almost everything you need to just put it back together.

It is a stolen and recovered car, ie the NR chasis number, although the original chassis number is still there on the compliance plate. It has been scratched of the body above the rradiator cowling. It's original colour is Indigo Blue, which is a beutiful colour, and it should go back to that when you paint it. The paint on it now is ok, it just needs a good buff.

Good luck with it.

Nice car, and the guy is a really nice bloke to!

Cheers

Aaron

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