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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:04 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: sunbury victoria
im going to pull my motor out and rebuild the gearbox and diff so i can use this engine until i build my twin cam engine..

what should i replace? i know second gear synchro is rooted, and the diff is very sick.. but i want to know everything i should pre order and purchase before i get the motor out so i can do the job as quickly as possible

cheers

sean

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:17 pm 
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1360cc
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Get hold of another gearbox so you can at least drive it while you're doing the other up.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:24 pm 
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1275cc
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im not made of money :lol: ive got another gearbox sitting there off a 998 motor with a remote change unit on it.. can i put pot joints on this? if so il build this one up and swap it over as soon as i pull the other motor out

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:38 pm 
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I would say that would not be a 4 synchro box.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:41 pm 
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if you dont have much money dont pre order parts you may not need. strip it and asses it for wear first.... or get another job :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:43 pm 
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You should be able to pick up a couple of rod change boxes pretty cheaply, strip em all and use all the best bits and only buy what you have too.

It will work out way cheaper and means you can remove your old box and put the new one on in a day or two.

I have done this and it works out fine, you may have to buy some things like maybe a good synchro for second and all the small bearings, gasket kits etc.

I have also done one the expensive way ie replace all of the worn bits with new bits, the box will end up lasting longer but the budget way still works too.

It just depends how much money/time you have.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:44 pm 
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il re phrase it, i have enough money to buy bits to refurb it, i dont want to spend money on something that isnt necessary just to use while im paying for the refurb on the other one

and im saving for something special

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:45 pm 
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meeni wrote:
im not made of money :lol: ive got another gearbox sitting there off a 998 motor with a remote change unit on it.. can i put pot joints on this? if so il build this one up and swap it over as soon as i pull the other motor out

My remote boxes all had rubber knuckle joints, these bolt on where pot joints slide/clip on. Unless you swap the shafts it might not fit.

You can put a fair bit of money into a gearbox. There might be good parts in ti so the only real way to tell is by pulling it apart.

Otherwise
Layshaft and bearings
Idler bearing
Main input bearing and roller bearing
Main double row bearing
Diff bearings
Sychro ring/s
2nd gear
Lock washer set, or spring washers
Centre oil pickup
Gasket set
Oil
Are the selector forks ok?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:46 pm 
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Smarty wrote:
You should be able to pick up a couple of rod change boxes pretty cheaply, strip em all and use all the best bits and only buy what you have too.

It will work out way cheaper and means you can remove your old box and put the new one on in a day or two.

I have done this and it works out fine, you may have to buy some things like maybe a good synchro for second and all the small bearings, gasket kits etc.

I have also done one the expensive way ie replace all of the worn bits with new bits, the box will end up lasting longer but the budget way still works too.


It just depends how much money/time you have.


good point darren, shame you bought the race car i would have nicked the box out of that :twisted:

whats a rod change box worth out of a clubby?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:47 pm 
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Or buy a cheap running 998 with a 4 synchro rod change and just use that box to get you by....

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:49 pm 
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Tombo wrote:
meeni wrote:
im not made of money :lol: ive got another gearbox sitting there off a 998 motor with a remote change unit on it.. can i put pot joints on this? if so il build this one up and swap it over as soon as i pull the other motor out

My remote boxes all had rubber knuckle joints, these bolt on where pot joints slide/clip on. Unless you swap the shafts it might not fit.

You can put a fair bit of money into a gearbox. There might be good parts in ti so the only real way to tell is by pulling it apart.

Otherwise
Layshaft and bearings
Idler bearing
Main input bearing and roller bearing
Main double row bearing
Diff bearings
Sychro ring/s
2nd gear
Lock washer set, or spring washers
Centre oil pickup
Gasket set
Oil
Are the selector forks ok?


not sure yet :oops: it engages gears ok, second gear is crunchy and i can move my pot joints around so i know i need a second gear synchro and a diff rebuild kit..

i just want it to be reliable for the next 6-8 months and then some

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:50 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Complete kits are available with all the wear components including bearings, layshaft, needle roller, baulk rings, seals, gaskets, diff pin, pinions, etc etc from the major UK suppliers.
Not included are selector forks ( as these are pricey and not necessarily worn out) and the needle roller for the primary gear case (although the gear box side is supplied....go figure...) So you will still need a few bits locally, but these are the dirt cheap bits and bobs generally (excluding selector fork if you need one or both).

Come in around the 320 mark posted I believe. For that price you can perform a scorched earth policy on the box, rebuild it all, not just what you think might be broken. I rebuilt my box using one of these kits and the collective knowledge on here.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:51 pm 
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doesnt sound bad!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:52 pm 
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Quote:
good point darren, shame you bought the race car i would have nicked the box out of that


Hehe yeah it does have quite a good box in it.

It got me this the other weekend....

Image[/img][/quote]

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:54 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Its great.

You have to have a good idea of what you have when you order or you will get the wrong parts.
3 or 4 synchro,
pot/rubber uni/hardy spicer output,
remote/rod change,
and if you order the needle roller for the case, you will need it's diameter,

Also not included I think is the outrigger bearing that sits on the input 1st motion shaft in the primary gear case. Once again, its cheap as well.

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