Hi guys,
Just need to get the placement right for my brake lines.
So i'm wanting to see pics of LS engine bays.

Yes, its for my Roundy, but i'm using an LS master cylinder (tandem).

Thanks.

And more specifically - the area where the front to rear line meets the bias valve, the brackets, etc etc.
Very confusing when you have nothing to work with.

I'll send you an MMS.

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i hope you are using the proper jack stands willy

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

Try this Will-hope it helps ohh sorry about the glitter!

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Lucky I put my sunnies on!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

gotta luv the glitter?

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Sweet! Exactly what I am after

Now , more of a technical question.

Is it crucial that that big ugly thing (proportioning valve?) be placed on the firewall?
Can I just run one outlet to the front lines, and then the other outlet to the rear?
Is it that simple? Where will I need to run one of these valves?
I notice also that on the rear subframe I removed, the front to rear line went through another splitter/proportioning type thing.
Quite confusing! It's all new to me!!

you can use only one of the front outlets on that valve if you like , yes,,, it`s on the same port,,, Edit--> Oh & oibviously you`ll need to bung up the other hole maybe with a bleed nipple

You can fit the valve anywhere you like

You`ll probably want to replace the rear "Limiting Valve" with a "T" piece but you don`t "NEED" to,,, it can actually stay there if you like

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt, with that big valve up the front, what is its function?
Do I really need to run it?

William if you are running a rear bias valvle then no you dont have to have the front one at all.

And Matt, bunging up nipple's will give you mastitis, not a good thing

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Nice glossy black charcoal cannister, to boot.

Impressive!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Just ordered a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.
I'll see how I go on Saturday.



** watch this space **

PS.. Will I need anything at the rear subframe?
IE still using that splitter/bias valve/whatever the hell it was that was fitted originally??

willy that valve (is meant to do) does 2 things,,, one it`s meant to act as a limniting valve for the rear brakes & it`s also supposed to shut off one side if it senses un-equal pressure

most times they`re just a pain But when they work , they work,,, when they don`t they don`t

you can do away with it "IF" you do 2 things,,, one fit a limit valve of some sort into the rear line (or use really small rear cyls) ,,, & 2 make sure you use the correct tube nuts (fittings) into wherever you set your pipes up,,, the tandum systems use late metric (double flare) short tube nuts & the early systems take imerial / unf (single ball flare) stuff,,, so don`t mix them up,,, in other words don`t try to fit metric into imperaial & vice versa & you ll be ok

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Alright, sweet.
Thanks Matt... very helpful.


Would this work?
Do you see any obvious flaws in it?

Sorry for the picture - it's all I could knock up at work