A previous owner of my MK II S decked the block, so parts of the engine number are now very difficult to read. Does anyone know where I can buy or borrow a stamp set so I can re-stamp the numbers/letters that aren't clear? The stamps would need to be exactly the same font and pitch as the original. Alternatively, are there any engine machinists in Melbourne who could do it?

I've read some old threads on here about the perils of re-stamping and whether it is morally and legally OK but they mainly relate to changing the number so as to maintain originality.

Hrmm.... Vicroads restamped mine.... Don't know if you could goto them and have them do it in a specific font or what. *shrugs*

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- 1973 Leyland Clubman - GOZARD (Sold)
- 1965 Morris Mini Deluxe - UN333K
- 2002 Mini Cooper - BINI Vs. Tree. BINI lost. Replaced with a Cooper S!(Sold on the day I had my son Austin Cooper).

What parts of the number are hard to read?

I would recommend leaving it as is. It's far better to have an engine with the original stamping rubbed back then a re-stamped one. The re-stamped ones always leave an air of doubt over originality.

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In the garage:
1970 Morris Cooper S MK2 | 2010 MINI Cooper JCW Challenge Edition

Now with new owners:
1964 Morris 850 Van | 1965 Morris Cooper S MK1 | 1976 Leyland Mini | 1999 Rover Mini Cooper Classic | 2006 MINI Cooper JCW

I have the right size letter & number stamps, just a bit too far away from you though.


Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

I'd expect Link etc. to have a set of stamps

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I'd say leave it as it is , even though you are only restamping the original number to make it clearer you run the risk of the stamp moving as it's hit and possibly making it look like it's been restamped to cover something or change something . Better to be a bit hard to read than to be something you aren't happy with or looks dodgy .

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I have asked about having the block decked without the number area being touched. I was told it is possible but inconvenient for the person doing it. Any thoughts on that? Bit late for this case I guess.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I have decked both my 1100S blocks like this.
It is not inconvenient for the decking process, but...
It depends on the boring head setup how much problem it gives when boring the cylinders.
If it's the common little portable Repco type borer, you have to put a shim or sheet on the block higher than the number pad if it's sticking up proud. So that you can clamp the borer down flat.
If it's a big fixed head boring machine where the block locates on its base or main bearing tunnels, then having the number pad sticking up won't matter.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Number stamps the correct size are hard to find (most are metric) but lower case letters are very hard to find. The main problem is you cant get the correct font (a bit like "times new roman"?) with the little bits on the ends of the letters. Unless you are restoring your engine back to concourse condition, have the block decked again to remove all traces of the number and just re stamp it with modern number stamps. Cooper S engines were all made in the UK and were fitted with a Alloy engine number plate, reverse stamped, that was removed when the engines were fitted here. I belive Mini spares in the UK offer the correct reverse stamping of the plates for restos.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Cooper S engines here had the engine number stamped into the block after the UK tin plate was removed. Because it was illegal to not stamp the block for registration purposes.
The tin plate was not refitted to the block.
Why would you need the UK plate for an Oz S resto???

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I am well aware that Australian engines were stamped here, I didnt say have an alloy plate made & fit it to a Aussie S motor, im just saying that they are available in the UK for there engines. The tin plates (not alloy) were fitted to the later A+ blocks.

I have seen a couple of original untouched minis (850s & S) over the years with the alloy plate tied to the oil pipe (850) or cooler hose (S) with some string. Maybe this was the case for all of them but most have been lost over the years? I have a few old 850 alloy plates here somewhere.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Cant they just face the block last and put a cam fer on the bores by hand?

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Cam fer

What the

Steve

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1964 998cc Cooper
1971 Mini K x 2
1972 Clubman GT

chamfer

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Well yeah they can, but IF the top deck is not flat (eg dished in the middle) it's poor practice to bore it like this, if using a Repco style portable borer. You may not get the bores dead parallel to each other then.
So then you need to deck it flat first, with or without the number pad left proud.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.