I lost high beam in the left hand side light a few months ago and after a clueless look I just hooked it into the right side high beam.
All was good until a couple of weeks ago when I lost both high beams.
So today after I booked it into the auto elects I though I'd cheek one more time and they worked.
Flicked them on and off a couple of times and all good.
10 mins later I tried again and they haven't come back on since.
Any suggestion on what I can check before I pay the $$$ for someone else to do it?

Bearing in mind that this is an spi motor and electrics.

Cheers.

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'72 English Van...'72 Export Moke ...63' 850...KZ 750E1...'74 P76

'clubman' type indicator & high/low/flash switch on the colume are allways causing problems, check that first as they are often buggered.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

We have all just about had this problem - yes its the column switch that is the problem. The wiring just doesn't take the current and each time you switch between high and low it wears a bit more of the solder away.

Then it begins to arc (sparks) and then finally the contact is barely there so the lights dont work.

What many of us have done is to fit (or have fitted) a good quality relay to the lights. The indicator switch then just becomes exactly that. A switch to the relay and the relay carries the current the lights need. Not the column indicator. Its especially necessary if you have big wattage H4 Halogen bulbs.

Your indicator mechanism may be past the point of no return and may need replacing regardless but ultimately another one will fail again unless you go the route of the relay.

Mike

Top tip Mike.

A relay will also boost light brightness considerably

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

If only one stopped first then I'd be checking the bullet connectors under the slam panel (bar at top of grille that the bonnet "slams" onto). All the wiring is common to both lights to that point - even the Spi's.

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Fit a relay. I had a problem with my SPi when I fitted H4's, the headlight switch started playing up (poor contacts). Most common is the column switch though.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

Try this, Good reading
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

Steve

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"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

Thanks for the replys fellas and the pm VicMini.

After another look I found that the dipper switch is providing power to both high and low beam but still no go.
In my workshop manual it says that there should be a relay and resister along the way somewhere but buggered if I can find them.
I may work on powerlines but that's where my electrical knowledge stops so it's off to the auto elects tomorrow.
Nothing $$$ can't fix.

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'72 English Van...'72 Export Moke ...63' 850...KZ 750E1...'74 P76

Have another look at the manual Damian, there's no resistor involved in the light circuit.

Chase out the blue/red(low beam) and blue/white(high beam) wires under the bonnet catch panel. in the center there will be a set of connectors where these two wires branch out to the left and right lights. Stick your multimeter in there and test for twelve volts between there and the body for both high and low beam settings on the stalk.

- If you get no volts on one or both of these, then it is a stalk problem, or a supply problem from the fuse box or an inline fuse.
If the park lights work fine, then check your light switch as the supply is common for the park and headlight circuit which excludes the supply as a problem (it branches out inside the switch). If the park lights don't work, then it will probably be your supply from the fuse box or an inline fuse.

-If you got 12 volts out the front of the car... then check the black ground wires which connect in the same manner under the bonnet catch panel. Disconnect and hold the right or left light's black wire up in the air away from the body. With the lights turned on (for either low and high beam, it doesn't matter which) you will get 12 volts here (as it is open circuit, no current flows and the black will rise to 12 volts) This proves the bulb and plug for one light, repeat for the other side.


Grab a piece of sandpaper and give everything a rub as you put it back together on the contact surfaces, it will make for a brighter burning bulb for each connection you do.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

It's an SPi, and if he's got a UK manual then it will show that there is an additional circuit that supplies 10v (via a resistor) to the low beam circuit when the parking lights are on so that they can work as fog lights - got to love the foggy old Dart.

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Is there? So they operate at a low glow?

Cheers Vic Mini!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yup - enough to drive with on a dark night but not light up the fog too much

Also, if you relay the low beam you should disable that additional circuit otherwise the 10v is enough to trigger most relays and you end up with full low beam when your parking lights and ignition are both on - an RTA no-no

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