Ok......

I just bought all the shite to do a front drum rebuild
drums, spring, cylinders etc.
and i successfully installed them
now this is where the trouble starts.
i've adjusted the adjusting screws and theyre all good
I've filled up with new fluid and bled about three times on each side
but im still not getting any pedal pressure till right at the end of the brake pedals range (like foot stuck to the floor kinda thing) so the car stops... just!
I've checked all the connections i disturbed and they're all tight with no leaks
and when i bleed it the fluid is flowing quite well just no pedal pressure ???
Anyone got any ideas????
Cheers
Hoba

try loosening off the adjusters and using the trickle method ?

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Okay
On the assumption that everything is correctly assembled.

Go back and unadjust the brakes. Then start with the left hand rear - the brake the furtherest away from the master cylinder. Bleed again - but make sure the person pumping the pedal uses slow deliberate pumping with a second's space at the bottom of the pedal and the second's space t the top of the pedal travel.

Brake fuild has quite some viscosity and fast furious pedal pumps just frothes it up.

Do it of the other rear wheel then the offside front and then the nearside front.

Then readjust the brakes and see if you still have a problem. If do then there is other steps we can take.

Mike

Yep, you've still got air in the system...

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Pete...
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1968 Deluxe 1275
1969 Deluxe 'Scruby' 998 Looking for a roof skin...

What type of master cylinder is it?

Standard type or dual circuit?

Have you tried restricting the fluid flow at all of the flexible hoses, not clamping them so they are blocked, just enough to restrict the fluid flow. Best to use fuel type clamps not vise grips or the like. The fuel hose clamps are yellow in colour and are plastic.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

sounds to me like they're not adjusted properly - what you should do is adjust them up to the point where they're locked, then back them off a bit

when adjusting the fronts, turn the adjuster so the pin contacts the outer most part of the shoe

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Matt Read reckons to bleed them with the front adjusters loose, so the pistons can move and push the air out.
Then adjust them up.
I've found when fitting new cylinders that air gets trapped in the slave cylinder link pipe, try bleeding at the top end of it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the reason was way more logical than that - the bleeder hole is in the centre of the piston, which is mounted with the pistons aligned vertically. if they're adjusted up, then the topmost piston can have a bubble under it, and above the bleed hole. Un-adjusting them pulls that piston down, so the air bubble is in line with the bleeder hole

great bit of logic that one

See Matt - some of it rubs off!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

i had the similar problem but it was just that i ahd not re - adjusted the front shoes up, so there fore it was taking 2-3 pumps of the peddel to get the front shoes to reach the drum
did that and it was all good.

maybe that s it

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

hee hee,,, yep, you have it right Simon,,, days like this make it all worth while

I "RARELY" ever need to "Pump the peddle" when sorting brake bleeding issues out

Sooooo..... There`s usually at least 2x problems asociated with the average person attempting drum mbrake bleeding & adjusting,,, one of which is the adjusters rotation direction ,,, & the other is the bleeding method

i`d suggest un-adjusting the front brakes --> & un-adjusting means to turn the adjusters in the opposite direction of the forward rotation of the wheels

(don`t worry about the rears , just leave them adjusted up) ,,,

then bleed the system---> & to do that, just release all 4x bleed screws & let them drip away,,, have a cuppa & just jeep an eye on the resovoire fluid level & keep it topped up as they`re all bleeding out.

Now """IF""" no fluid comes out of a nipple then there will be some sort of blockage, maybe just some poop,,, maybe a hose is crook,,, whatever,,, so that will need addressing first & then get back to the bleeding

after you have all that done & fluid is happilly P!$$ing from all 4 wheels,,, & you`ve kept the resovoire topped up the whole time,,,, then walk around & tighten the nipples back up

then adjust up the front brakes , one at a time, till they lock the wheel,,,then back it off till the wheel turns... BUT!!!!!!!!!!!! The front brakes (if they`re twin leading shoes) will need to be adjusted the correct "way",,, adjust up in the direction of the forward rotation of the wheel.,,, if it`s not done this way then they will tend to un-adjust themselves whilst driving along applying the brakes, each application of the peddle will un-adjust them.

so,,, """IF""" if done all that,,,, & '""IF""" everything is perfect & nothing else is wrong. then you should be able to jump into the car,,, press the brake peddle & all should be well

any problems with this method , just PM me or ring me 0407 135 656

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

silly question but did you replace the black flexible brake hoses as well, sometimes these can swell up inside and not let any fluid through. Get pressure one way but then not the other way.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

Wicked
Cheers MiniMan for taking the time to write that post
much appreciated and cheers to everyone for their replies
I will smash some burnt chicken into my teeth for dinner then
go out and bleed the crap outta the brakes till the f*&kers work
by the way no i didnt change the hose their still in good knick and i checked them while someone pumped the brake......
theres no pedal pressure at all till right at the end of the brakes range
so i reckon its air .....

cheers
Hoba

How can you tell that the hoses are ok? They swell internally. You can't see that from the outside.

My own theory is that if you don't know the age or history of rubber brake parts you replace them, and if they are more than 10 years old you replace them.

Matt, well done!!
This should be also posted in the How to forum.

Exactly what I was after for so long for the Mini K brakes.

Admin. Can we put this in the "How to" forum.?? please Brakes are sooo important!

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"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2