Just wondering if there are any technicalish reasons to go towards uni or pot joints it looks like pot joints are they way to go as they are cheaper and are still avliable but if the uni joints are better and last longer then i wouldnt mind tracking some down.

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I'm grew up on the street, not the hood, the sesame st

Hardy Spicer U/Js are stronger- but pots last longer, are easier to get and give less power loss too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sorry the hardy spicer ones are the little plastic cup kind of things with the roll of bearings inside yer? i thought that the hardy spicer ones were different again.

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I'm grew up on the street, not the hood, the sesame st

can you do it to all boxs

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The Hardy Spicers I referred to are the Cooper S ones.

Those ones inside plastic cups are aftermarket. Yes they are also `Hardy Spicers' (inside) but those plastic cups are a bit fragile. These are also NLA new.

The old rubber unis- are intolerant of oil, and don't last with big HP motors.

Go for pot joints, they are the best available really.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

great, thanks for that. Feel a little less worried that i bought all the bits for the mechanic to change them over now.

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I'm grew up on the street, not the hood, the sesame st

Yep, but you need pot joint output shafts in the diff. Side covers are std Mini size (not Cooper S ones).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The pot joint has the advantage over the other types because it can handle plunge under load.
The other types rely on sliding splines to alter the length as the suspension angles change but the sliding splines can lock up under load. This drains power but can also affect handling.

But the pot joint can only handle so much load before it fails. Luckily this is well above what most of up are likely to see.

easier to change a drive shaft and CV joint over as well using pots. They just drop out easily after you take the boot off.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

NOTE.... fitting complete (assembled) pot joint shafts on early front subbys. The pot body won't fit through the frame...
Solution- but the CV will, so fit the shaft outwards through the frame.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.