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uni vs pot joins
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55506		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  roleyfoley [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:50 pm ]
Post subject:  uni vs pot joins
Just wondering if there are any technicalish reasons to go towards uni or pot joints it looks like pot joints are they way to go as they are cheaper and are still avliable but if the uni joints are better and last longer then i wouldnt mind tracking some down.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hardy Spicer U/Js are stronger- but pots last longer, are easier to get and give less power loss too.
Author:  roleyfoley [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
sorry the hardy spicer ones are the little plastic cup kind of things with the roll of bearings inside yer? i thought that the hardy spicer ones were different again.
Author:  gafmo [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
can you do it to all boxs
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
roleyfoley wrote:
sorry the hardy spicer ones are the little plastic cup kind of things with the roll of bearings inside yer? i thought that the hardy spicer ones were different again.

The Hardy Spicers I referred to are the Cooper S ones. :wink:

Those ones inside plastic cups are aftermarket. Yes they are also `Hardy Spicers' (inside) but those plastic cups are a bit fragile. These are also NLA new.

The old rubber unis- are intolerant of oil, and don't last with big HP motors.

Go for pot joints, they are the best available really.
Author:  roleyfoley [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
great, thanks for that. Feel a little less worried that i bought all the bits for the mechanic to change them over now.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
gafmo wrote:
can you do it to all boxs

Yep, but you need pot joint output shafts in the diff. Side covers are std Mini size (not Cooper S ones).
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
The pot joint has the advantage over the other types because it can handle plunge under load.
The other types rely on sliding splines to alter the length as the suspension angles change but the sliding splines can lock up under load. This drains power but can also affect handling.

But the pot joint can only handle so much load before it fails. Luckily this is well above what most of up are likely to see.
Author:  Drexxle [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
easier to change a drive shaft and CV joint over as well using pots. They just drop out easily after you take the boot off.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Drexxle wrote:
easier to change a drive shaft and CV joint over as well using pots. They just drop out easily after you take the boot off.

NOTE.... fitting complete (assembled) pot joint shafts on early front subbys. The pot body won't fit through the frame... :shock: :lol:
Solution- but the CV will, so fit the shaft outwards through the frame.
:wink:
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