Chasing two images only.

Need to see correct setup for front subframe mounts.

Prefered angles are through hole under the bumper, and also from underneath if at all possible.

I have diagrams now of the exploded view, but have found they don't show me enough detail.

I would post picture of what I have, but my camera has crap itself and I can't justify buying a new one considering I never use it.

Whats it feel like? Weird doesn't tell us jack.
It's possible the wheels arent in the same allignment as before purely because of the rack.

I'm not asking anyone to solve the problem. I have requested images.

have a look on somerford mini's website, they have nice exploded views of stuff

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

hit the search button and go for your life. that and the gallery, theres plenty of pics for you to fondle through

Yeah, I got those exploded diagrams, they are a bit of a help, but don't really show me what I need.

I need to see the completely assembled mount if possible. I am sure mine is incorrectly done.

I think that my subframe is actually moving when driving due to it being secured incorrectly at the front. If I can get pictures then I am going to buy new bolts & new teardrop rubbers then re-do them both myself.

is that all the front subframe mounts or the front subframe mounts on the front subframe?
Not trying to be a smartarse just not sure what you need. I can try to get some pics but it wont be till the weekend.

I also find that when you ask people for assistance it pays not to be rude.

Whether the front mounts has anything to do with it has yet to be determined, and I was only after pictures. I'm sorry if it was a bit abrupt about the way I phrased it.


For a more detailed explanation read on.....
Was told my steering rack was rooted.
Put the car in to have it replaced.
Rack was replaced.
Got car back and was horrified at the new racks installation and driveability of the car.
Took the car to another mechanic who said the job looked like it was 'half done'....great..I only drove it for a few days with it being 'half done'.
It was ok for a few more days, then the steering went sloppy again.

The front end just doesnt feel tight.
I can't really explain it other than it's not what it was like before the rack was done, even witha dodgy rack the front end was quieter, and more predictable.

It feels as though I am sometimes needing steer when I shouldn't be having to, like the front end is shifting and creating over-steer / under-steer.

My plan is to work back from the subframe front mount, as at the moment that is what I suspect is the main cause. There were issues with the mechanic putting the tow hooks in, and I think one side has been utterly f'ked up.

Upon jacking the car up last night and giving underneath a good going over, both bottom ball joints on each side have a small amount of movement. For the moment I have re-greased them, which has removed 90% of the movement.

Next point to check this arvo is the steering rack, make sure u-bolts and the like are still tight.

I can only get time to check so much at a time, as it's a daily driver. I have kept a massive picture diary of all my previous minis, yet this area of the car is one part I don;t seem to have ever taken a picture of.

I need to identify everything I can so I can take it to the local british car place, and tell them exactly what I want fixed. I don't trust them to say "I have A problem, tell me what it is and fix it please.".

The front mounts are the rubber teardrop type, not solid.

That post is a lot more helpful to us.
Without telling you what the problem is, can I suggest that you check or note the following points before going to a garage. No point paying somone a hundred bucks if it turns out to be a loose screw or something.

1. Lift carpets and check the four nuts on rack U bolts are tight.
2. check that the 1/4 inch bolt in the bottom of the column is in and tight. It clamps the column to the rack input shaft.
3. Remove front wheels and check the balljoints and steering arm connection. The arm connection is a nyloc nut and if there's not enough pressure when its tightened the whole nut & joint pin will spin without actually getting tighter. If thats the case the rack may move but the hubs may not. Pumping grease as you mentioned earlier into a worn balljoint may temporarily appear to help it diu to a hydraulic lock situation. An hour or two on the road will undo the process, so if it goes back to being sloppy its time for new joints or remove a shim.
4. Check that the arm to the hub itself is a tight connection. If it's worn then it may need new dowell pins and lock tab. Unlikely but check.
5. From under the car, check the nuts on the rear mounts are tight.
6. Towhook: nothing special here, the hook holds the teardrop to the subframe,
teardrop then goes back to body with a 5/16 inch screw. Check all is tight.
Side note: it was common for the factory to put square shim plates 0.8-1.0mm thick between the subframe and teardrops to allow for misallignment tolerances. They slot in, and if the bolts weren't tight then they can fall out (highly unlikely due to the amount of friction in there) and make a bigger gap for the rest to follow. We aren't talking one or two shims here, I've seen upto four in a corner.
7. Check the big 1 5/16 AF bolts in the shock tower for tightness.

Looking at your avatar and by Harley's comments it sounds like you have a Rover with rubber subframe mounts.

Easy to check, get a jack and put it under the front corner of the subframe where the tie-rod connects to the subframe and take the weight while looking through the hole where the front mount bolt can be seen (towing eyebolt??) - if the head of the bolt moves anything more than 1 or 2 mm in relation to the body as you jack the car it means that the teardrop mount has de-laminated and needs replacing. Check both sides.

Then jack the body at the jackpoint under the floor near the front of the door while watching for any movement at the rear subframe mounts - subframe should not move away from the floor, otherwise it has become de-laminated and needs replacement. Check both sides again.

When talking to a mechanic make certain that he knows that it is a Rover body with rubber mounts because these are different to the ones used on the Aussie bodies. Last time I needed some of these parts I got them from Karcraft, and it took less than an hour to replace all four myself.

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Just thought of another thing to check... have a close look at where the front bottom engine steady mounts onto the subframe - they are known to break/split the subframe at the weld, allowing the front of the subframe to spread/contract under power, brakes, steering and/or road camber changes which drastically alters the wheel alignment. I've had it happen once and it can only be described as a "weird" feeling of the car being thrown around where all of a sudden you need to randomly move the steering wheel 1/4 turn one way or the other.

Front bottom engine steady is located from near where the starter motor is mounted, across to near the drivers side front corner of the subframe. Easily seen from underneath. There is a small "L" bracket welded to the subframe for it.

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How are the front subframe mounts different on a rover? The roundy and clubby ive taken apart had a bolt through the body and the front of the frame with a nut behind. Is this the same on a rover?

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Simplify and add lightness

Early Minis (including all Oz built) have a metal "teardrop" shaped "mount" that fits between the front of the subframe and the body - bolted to both.

In the later Rovers, this mount is a little larger and is actually two layers of steel with a layer of rubber laminated between them. Fits in the same place and the same way - just helps to reduce the road and engine vibrations being transferred from the subframe to the body.

There is also a rubber laminated block like a small engine mount between the rear subframe mount and the floor.

And no - they're not a straight swap with the mounts on the early subframes/bodies.

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