IIRC, it was Mini Kingdom that bought Brickworx's diagnostic unit which might be helpful.
Otherwise, I have to say Grieg Malure never missed a beat whenever I had problems. The car always came back better than ever.
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| Rover SPI question https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56081 |
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| Author: | dr gonzo [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rover SPI question |
Hi All, I have a 1995 Rover Cooper SPI and it has a flat spot on acceleration and is chweing through fuel pretty quickly,could be a few things,injectors,o2 sensor,or cat problems but I need to take it to someone within the Sydney area that knows how to work on the SPI cars. I live near Mini Kingdom at Narellen but they dont really know the Rover injected variants,anybody know of anyone else,and of those who have injected Rovers where do you take them in Sydney. Thanks. chris |
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| Author: | Boyracer [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
IIRC, it was Mini Kingdom that bought Brickworx's diagnostic unit which might be helpful. Otherwise, I have to say Grieg Malure never missed a beat whenever I had problems. The car always came back better than ever.
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| Author: | dr gonzo [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 4:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
cool mate,I might give Mini Kingdom another call then,otherwise I can try Greg that guy definately knows his stuff.Thanks for the tips.Where did your SPI go to? |
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| Author: | Boyracer [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:36 pm ] |
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A good mate of mine bought it. He wanted it the minute he saw it, so when I rang him a year later and said 'I've had my fun', he bought it on the spot.
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| Author: | doogie [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The engine vacuum rubber hoses are shot, replace them & it should be all good. Doogie |
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| Author: | dr gonzo [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:11 pm ] |
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Thanks mate,I will mention it to Glen at Mini Kingdom when I drop it in next week,about the engine vaccum hoses. cheers |
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| Author: | Boyracer [ Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:39 pm ] |
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Doogie's suggestion is a good one. And it's actually really easy to check this yourself. The most common failings are the little elbows which the nylon lines plug into. They crack up with the heat in the engine bay. One little hairline crack is enough to cause you grief as the ECU will be getting the wrong info as to what the manifold pressure really is and will incorrectly modify the air/fuel ratio accordingly. Now there are two hoses that come off the back of the inlet manifold. One goes to the air filter, the other goes to a little black box (about the size of a tick tack box) mounted on the firewall. Another hose from the tick tack box runs down to the MAP sensor which is located in the ECU. The tick tack box is a fuel trap. In theory it's meant to catch fuel vapour and liquid from running down the line and clogging up your MAP sensor. This is probably the second most common failing so far as all these vacuum lines are concerned. So unplug it from the back of the manifold, unplug it from the Fuel Trap. And also unplug the line that runs from the Fuel Trap down to the ECU at both ends. Get yourself one of those air dusters from Officeworks and blow compressed air through these tubes as well as the Fuel Trap to make sure they're all clear. If you put your thumb over one end while you give it a blast from the other, you should be able to tell if your lines have leaks in them. (Don't be tempted to blow the air up into the MAP sensor though). Now if it seems you're still having trouble, it might be that fuel has gone all the way down the line and clogged the inlet to the MAP sensor. In this case, the most common advice I've seen is to roll a bit of tissue and stick it into the MAP sensor inlet and leave the ECU standing over a radiator/heater for a few hours. Somehow any fuel up there will dissipate. I used a strand of wool.
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