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 Post subject: Driving On Empty Hydro
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:50 am 
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I need to replace my fornt displacer but I've had no luck borrowing a pump or valve of anyone (still waiting on my valve to arrive from tyre store...2 weeks now) Anyway if I change the bag on the front and have it reasonably full of fluid....but obvioudsly not under pressure. Will it be possible to drive this the 20kms to get it pumped up properly, as it is with a hole in the front one its pretty much under no pressure anyway....

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:54 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I forced myself to try this some time ago, and although you can assure yourself the tyres have enough clearance, they will scrape virtually straight away.

In my case I ruined two tyres @ 100 dollars each for the sake of a 50 dollar car trailer..

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:09 am 
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If you have stock 3.5x10 wheels, you can drive it without any clearance problem. Except the Maniflow LCB if you have one might get cleaned up on bumps.
I drove my Matic 20 miles when flat, no problem. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:14 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I should have mentioned, I had 165 wide tyres which scraped the wheel arches...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:18 pm 
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Drove my old Cooper S for months on bump stops......handled unreal, not much ground clearance, and snapped 2 or 3 wheel studs (this was many many years ago - I am much wiser now!) and was amazed at the difference when the guys at the local servo serviced the car and pumped up the hydro!

Watch those speed bumps! (didn't have those stupid things in my day :D )

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:45 pm 
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Hmmm, well Ive got 12's on so Im not sure about clearance. As I said with the hole ive got it would be pretty close to empty as is. Ill have a look at where the stops are as is. Anyone got a tractor valve they can mail me temporarily?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:08 pm 
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Mick wrote:
I forced myself to try this some time ago, and although you can assure yourself the tyres have enough clearance, they will scrape virtually straight away.

In my case I ruined two tyres @ 100 dollars each for the sake of a 50 dollar car trailer..


Or you could have just borrowed my trailer and saved the $50. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I didn't know you so well then....

One of these days I'll even make that home made hydro pump up..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:36 pm 
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i was in the same situation once, and put competition bump stops on... the really chunky ones. I then drove the car slowly to get repaired behind another car with hazzards on. I scraped a bit of one of the tyres but it seemed to protect the muffler etc though.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:38 pm 
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Been running around in mine for months with hydro leaking at valves in rear, getting lower and lower to the point where it'd rub the front tyres turning corners at walking pace and even the slightest bumps - got it pumped the other day plus new valves and it's a new car - so smooth!
Not sure what you mean by tractor valves? If you need to replace the valves in the rear aren't they just normal tube valves?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:01 pm 
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I reckon he means tractor valve as on a home-made hydro "grease gun" pump?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Yeah thats exactly what I mean.
Anyway, im definately running on my stops. Looks like I have been for a while to which is odd cause I havent noticed any rubbing. So is it safe for me to have and attept then? Heck I'll let you know next weekend haha.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 5:44 pm 
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peter1 wrote:
Been running around in mine for months with hydro leaking at valves in rear, getting lower and lower to the point where it'd rub the front tyres turning corners at walking pace and even the slightest bumps - got it pumped the other day plus new valves and it's a new car - so smooth!
Not sure what you mean by tractor valves? If you need to replace the valves in the rear aren't they just normal tube valves?

Yes the hydro valves are just standard Schrader tyre valves.
The adaptor for the grease gun pump is what is a `tractor tyre water filling' part.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
1H-H556 is one part number, 1H-H2755 is another with a different hose fitting.

Have a look in this catalogue using those numbers and you'll find them.
I've been keeping the numbers till I get around to it...

http://www.rimtec.com.au/PDFs/Rimtec%20Catalog.pdf

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:20 pm 
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Just get a metal valve cap or a metal valve extension and attach a hose to it. You do not need to buy a tractor valve or a $90 valve to do the job.

Actually the very first one that I ever pumped up I used the hose from a foot pump with the little lever to lock it in place. It kept blowing off but it did eventually pump it up.

This is the end on my pump. It is made from a valve extension that has been silver soldered to a brass fitting.
Image

And this is my hydro pump. It is made from a Mini plastic tank master cylinder and is fitted to a Morris 1100 pedal box. The ice cream tub gives it a larger capacity so it does not need filling every 4 strokes.
Image


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