Here is an extract from Cooper S Mk2 1969 version in the register.

Note: Car ID plates were phased out during late Mark 1 Cooper S production. The new style ADR compliance plates did not have to be fitted to the cars until 1 January 1970. As a result, no Mk2 Cooper S built up to the end of December 1969 has either an ID plate or a compliance plate. The only identifiers are those stamped directly into the car body, so for authenticity of the car it is important that these numbers remain. As ADR compliance plates are easily moved between cars, it is important to understand that the compliance plate is not proof of the car's identity - it only certifies that the car with the number stamped into the plate complied with the relevant ADR's at the time of manufacture, as stamped on the plate. For this reason, the numbers stamped into the body are the more important identifiers.

I have one of these, it has all the required body attributes except the gutter and radiator shroud stamping are hard to read, please advise how I can prove I have a genuine 1969 Mk2 Cooper S.

Sadly i think you have answered your own question

"The only identifiers are those stamped directly into the car body, so for authenticity of the car it is important that these numbers remain".

Sadly if the radiator shroud YG2S4 xxx stamping and the xxx 2/06 gutter stamping is unreadable or missing the car can not be confirmed as a genuine Mk2 S.

This would affect the value, however it would be more than a Mini K replica but less than a Genuine Mk2 S.

If you remove all the mechanical components, body hardware and trim from a 1969 MK II Cooper S body shell so it is completely bare, and compare it to a non-Cooper S body shell (Mini K or Mini Matic for example) in the same state you will find a number of areas where they differ. By closely examining those areas to see if they appear to be factory original and not created subsequently you can form a view as to whether a body claimed to be Cooper S is more likely than not to be genuine. It's a bit like the steps to identify yourself when applying for a bank account or passport. You submit multiple items of "evidence" that, when viewed together, allows the authority to determine that it is more likely than not that you are who you say you are.

The areas to examine include the location of the right hand tank aperture, breather tube tabs location and method of fixing in the boot, presence of a hole in the boot floor for breather tube exit, fuel pump breather tube hole, location and method of fixing heater mounting brackets, and position and method of fixing the angled brace behind the grille.

Someone with knowledge, motivation, skill, time and appropriate welding and stamping tools could produce a Cooper S body shell from a non-S donor that would be difficult, if not impossible, to tell was not factory original. Reproducing accurate spot welds done during sequential assembly of body panels on the production line is extremely difficult in some areas without removing and reattaching adjacent panels. This work would be costly so for most people not worth the investment. That's why some knowledgeable Cooper S enthusiasts can usually spot a replica upon close examination.

cooperess - you should try to get the best possible images of the stamp locations mentioned as sometimes a partial imprint can provide sufficient evidence that the shell is Cooper S, even if the numeric body number or car number part is incomplete or undecipherable. I recommend gtogreen1969 as a subject matter expert in such things should you want an opinion.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I am pretty sure I can read the xxx 2/06 gutter number but the shroud is harder. It ends in x79 2/06.

All those things and more you mentioned are there.

It's not just the actual stamped characters you can read but also their size and orientation on the gutter/panel that can help determine original or not.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Oh wow. How do I verify those?

Why not just enjoy driving the car that is I assume otherwise specked as the road rocket many of us enjoy. It shouldn’t be about a a theoretical value.

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1960 Morris Mini Minor

Totally agree with "minijcar"...unless it IS about a "theoretical value".

It would be in this case because he is trying to sell it.

cooperess

I don't know if you are getting feedback from buyers but the lack of flares is something that is unusual for the MK2 S. I have only seen 2 others without flares. Car 1545 and 2036 and both were restored cars.

The position and size of the chassis number changed a few times during the production period. The 2/06 gutter stamp was used up to May 1970 then went to the firewall.

If you want to sell it as a MK2 S body then uncovering the chassis and body stamps would be beneficial. Also correct spot welded tabs on the front bulkhead and rear bulkhead/parcel shelf. I don't think they can be spot welded to an assembled shell.

They have single sided spot welders out there

Also car is on Gumtree atm

That could work. Do you need to put a spot on the opposite side to make it look like a normal double sided spot weld?

gtogreen1969 is arguably the most knowledgeable on font type, font size, location and orientation. I think he would be happy to advise (confidentially) if you provide the best images you can get.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Happy to share what I have found. This will give you an idea where to look. But it still needs the change points tightened up a bit.

Up to approx car 1000 the MK2 S has the stamping in this position below.
The YG2S prefix is a single stamp, very uniform and close. The font is 1/4". Then a small gap to the 4 which is the same size. Then a small gap to the car number which is 3/8". They are stamped from the outside and positioned centrally.


The next stamping used the same size font however the gap between the YG2S and the 4 and the car number was wider apart. The car number is located further to the rear of the car. This style was used between approx car 1000 and 1500.


The third style has the font of the prefix and car number all the same font - 5/16" The 4 is much closer to the YG2S and then a larger gap to the car number. The position is also closer toward the engine bay between the 2 seal tabs.