Hi All, has any one had any expierence with E.R.P., those lil boxes with pretty lights that have the adhesive patch you stick to something metal, we sell these at my work to most punters who buy new cars(cost$400+)but i have asked the Rep what they are like and ov course he says theyre great. Since "vera" is 99.9% rust free i am wonderng if its worth lashing out the neddies and screwing one on to the car (well hidden of course)
I need an unbiased opinion from some one who may know about these things, are they good or should they be put on the shelf with Brockys "energy poloriser"

no load of crap ....... dontwork

_________________


'66 Morris Mini DeLuxe. In pieces.
'88 Honda EE2 4WDWagovan. DOHC.
'94 Honda EG4 Civic. -Daily-
'82 Toyota KE70 Corolla -Drifter- x2
'95 Honda DC2 Integra

It works by emiting a field of snake oil around the car.

Every car I've worked on with these attached still had rust in between panels I've replaced so therefore I relly don't think they do anything.
Best off keeping in the garage out of the weather and wash it as little as possible to kepp as dry as you can. Maybe spray some fish oil or cavity wax in as many areas as you can get to.
Phil

must adit, haven't heard of it before.
Works kinda like an electronic sacrificial anode does it?

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

You mean it only works when immersed in salt water?

So thats why my cars keep rustin out? I thought that if it worked on boat motors, it would work on the car!
Arent I the fool!

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

I've heard something like that, but air is not a very good electrolyte.
And if it was good, would the soft metal parts like the water pump/thermostat housing waste away?

_________________
Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

I wouldn't bother, we have a few of these on our under ground utes, they were installed from the dealer and they still rust just as fast as the ones without the units. Save your money for some real goodies.

What about bolting a big lump of magnesium to it. Protecting it by sacrifice

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

It amazes me that, even after the science behind why it doesn't work (i.e. air is a poor electrolyte, that it works best when the car is immersed in salt water, but it only works well locally around the patches, which are meant to corrode away before the steel does) is pointed out, there are still people in 4WD forums who insist it works.

If you want to protect your car with a sacrificial anode, just galvanize/zinc spray it. Before you paint it. Modern cars are already negative earth. And sacrificial protection (like ERP and galvanizing) only works over small distances. It works better than alternatives (i.e. tin isn't sacrificial, so, if you scratch through the tin to the iron/steel of a tin can, it'll rust out the iron/steel immediately, no matter how narrow the crack), but it still needs to be a near-constant covering (I was always told only a couple of millimetres gap - as in, a narrow scratch in galvanizing won't cause the steel underneath to corrode immediately). Certainly, sticking 4-10 little dots around your car isn't enough.

the best form of rust protection is to make your car from fibreglass