Hi all,

I am just wondering what the best process is for preparing a body for spraying.

The way I see it is as follows:

1. Repair all rust areas
2. Remove paint (sand, strip, whatever you like)
3. Clean bare metal
4. etch prime all bare metal areas
5. Body fill areas that need it
6. Hifill? Prime?

Just wondering if anyone has a basic outline of the steps needed to be taken when preparing the body for spraying.

Hi adzzza,

Are we talking a FULL bare metal respray or are you only stripping the bad areas?

1. remove paint
2. repair rust.
3. clean metal
4.bog
5.etch prime
6.high fill
7.prime

reasons being that you should NEVER put bog on anything but bare metal. There is a new product that has hit the market in the last 5 years called "soft bog" which you can use over paint but its only new tech and i would give them a couple more years to perfect it. Besides its aimed at comercial panel shops that need to get cars in and out asap regardless of how long it lasts. You should (while your at it) strip the paint first incase there is more rust than you first thought. Are you using Acrylic paint? If you are save yourself some cash, don't buy high fill. Just mix your primer surfacer at 20% thinners to 80% primer. Thats EXACTLY what most primer filler/high fills are. Infact if you buy PPG primer it give directions for mixing as filler or surfacer. The great thing about mixing your high fill like this is that you can put paint down straight after you rub down the guide coat it with out need of the extra step of primer surfacing it.

Along the same lines as this thread started, is there a good brand of etch prime in a spray can that can be recommended to protect a small area when it's taken back to bare metal? I'd like to work on small areas of light surface rust myself as I find time available before handing over to a professional spray painter to complete the prep work and full spraying.

Hi winabbey,

To answer your question, you can get areosol etch primer most places like super cheap and even most paint shops stock them. The only bad one I have encounted is a brand called K and H (think otherwise it was K n H).

Thats to answer your question. But to be helpful I will tell you that you should not leave you car in primer for extended periods because it obsorbs moisture and will cause rust (4 to MAYBE 6 months MAX if its under cover). A better option and one that is used by panel shops is to use oil. Yes oil. There is a specific type that they use but don't worry WD40 is cheaper and easier to obtain. Just make sure you prepsol it before you try and paint or work on it.

EDIT: Prepsol is just a brand of grease and wax remover. Its a trade name.

just another tip for those wanting to do small patch ups with primer but dont have spray equipment and want to keep costs down.
Buy your primer as you would if you were going to spray (non pressure pack!) and apply it with a roller.
Yes I am serious for all those who just laughed when reading this. I used to work in the truck smash repair field, and for smaller areas they used to apply the primer with a small foam roller (maybe 3 or 4 inches long).
No need for thinning, and no overspray. Careful though as you can still cause runs.

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

so I'm not the only nut job thats done that! I have done it with a paint brush tho not a roller,, but glad to hear I'm not the only one!

I still prefer oil cos it just washes of and away you go but yeah straight primer off the brush/roller will protect it to and it'll sand off pretty quick with a wizzer.

Cool idea

Thanks last two posters! That's the sort of willing contribution from those who have experience that makes discussions on Ausmini so worthwhile.

Thats alright

As I've said before you can alway find 500 people to tell you 500 ways to make your car go faster (so I don't bother joining them) but finding any one willing to discuss panel/paint work isn't always easy or its kind of a "black magic". I don't believe in trade "secrets" (well... ). If I can tell you something that makes you life easier then thats great, if I can help you save some cash too thats even better, and if I can do all that and stop another mini being turned into paper clips at the same time then thats perfect.

Even though I have worked in this industry its still great hearing other peoples ideas, I've learnt heaps watching you guys all talk about it, while trade experience is good, some times some good ol' bush panel beating is great to hear and learn about.. so long as it works

Hi,

Do you have to keep applying the WD40?

Im standing my car back and there are certain areas that I've gone back to bare metal.

Problem is I've started developing surface rust on the bare metal areas and Im not sure what to do now.

I wont be in a position to paint the car for a while so any advice would help.

Thanks
Dave

I agree with phat kat; k & h etch primer is a horrible product, yet I use so many of their other products with great success... I like the septone etch primer....

_________________


Size DOES Matter!!!

Adzzza,

From my recent experience you can get away with leaving bare metal for a short time (mine was exposed for up to a week) provided the car is under cover in a not too humid climate, and it isn't left damp.

The tiny bit of orange can be rubbed off very easily.

Otherwise, don't go easy with the prepwash, it will ensure your products go on nice.

And have lots of clean lint free rags handy, i like T shirt material.

_________________
Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

hi dave, wd40 is oil based, so it should last for a fair while. When I have used it in that sort of application it was just for a couple of days, so as to how long it will last for?....Dunno!
Probably best to reapply every few days in a light mist. Unless anyone has more of an idea and can add their opinions.

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

[quote="Trixitrine"]I agree with phat kat; k & h etch primer is a horrible product, yet I use so many of their other products with great success... I like the septone etch primer....[/quote]

Yep!!! didn't want to play favorites but septone all the way!!!!

And yeah re the WD40 just get the bare metal wet and that will be good for a week +, so long as there is a film of oil its protected regardless of time. It you already have rust, get some deoxidine or rust converter (just make sure that its phosphoric acid) it will clean up fine scrub with steel wool, clean off with metho, clean metho off with multi purpose thinners. thats for anything up to deep surface rust but if your talking full on cancer then consider sand blasting or wire wheeling, and then rust converter.

Thanks for the hints.

The rust is just surface (orange colour) stuff thats appeared since I rubbed it back but it scares me everytime i look at it.

Thanks again
Dave

I had bare panels in wd40 for over 6 months and were still as clean as the day they were stripped, I think they may have had one perhaps two light resprays of wd40 in that time....however the local panel beaters advised it does soak into the metal and can become quite a pain to remove....

Though I had no problems with an etch on those very panels after a good clean with prepsol...there was no fish eye or anything when sprayed with the etch, and is still fine today...though they will have to be stripped back and checked when spray time arrives