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Removing the roller bearing (have another question)
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Author:  sausage27 [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:46 am ]
Post subject:  Removing the roller bearing (have another question)
Hi everyone,
I'm at the process of rebuilding the gearbox for the car and got to the stage of removing the roller bearing on the first motion shaft but i simply cannot get it off. I've removed the circlip from it and just can't remove this bearing, not sure what i'm doing wrong.
I must note that i pulled the bearing shell and rollers off as you can see.
I would refer to one of my manuals but unforunately the pages on the gearbox and its assembly have been ripped out. :x
Below i have added a picture of it all, i know that it should be a relatively easy process.
Can anyone please help me, any information would be very helpful.

Cheers
Sav

Image
Author:  KLAS [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:07 am ]
Post subject: 
i once made me a tool to remove this bearing. it grips right behind the metal ring left over in your pic
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mini_klas/ ... 6/sizes/l/
Author:  GT mowog [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:23 am ]
Post subject: 
I would recommend NOT using heat - it is all too easy to give it 'just that bit extra' and damage other parts.

A good quality two leg bearing puller, with locking legs, such as the SP one will get the job done.

If you have a dremal and a loy of patentice, you can gring groves across it 180 deg. apart, not all the way through, just nearly (so you done damage the shaft) and strike it with a good cold chisel. That should split it in 2.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Remove the big circlip and take the 1st motion shaft and bearing out of box.
Hold the gear in a vice (use soft jaws), undo that nut and it will push the bearing journal nearly off.
I fit that outrigger bearing last thing after assembly. With the plastic cage they are very fragile.
When fitting a new one replace the outer ring in the flywheel housing. The manufacturer has changed the ID compared to early bearings, you will find a new bearing won't fit in it like they used to in the old days.
Author:  sausage27 [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the advise.
How do i remove the 1st motion shaft and bearing out of box?
As i said the pages to my manual are ripped out so i'm not sure how to do this.

Cheers
Sav
Author:  GT mowog [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:01 am ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
Remove the big circlip and take the 1st motion shaft and bearing out of box.
Hold the gear in a vice (use soft jaws), undo that nut and it will push the bearing journal nearly off.
I fit that outrigger bearing last thing after assembly. With the plastic cage they are very fragile.
When fitting a new one replace the outer ring in the flywheel housing. The manufacturer has changed the ID compared to early bearings, you will find a new bearing won't fit in it like they used to in the old days.


Hey Doc, that's not a bad idea, quite ingenus! I'd be inclined however to do it in the gearbox and lock it up (1st & 4th) because the nut is (or should be) very tight - 150 ft/lb !

And as the Doc also says, replace the outter ring - not to do this would be very poor practice.

Now I can see you are about to ask how to get the outter ring out. Use a puller, but if you don't have one again carefully grind slots 180 deg. apart and it will fall out, but be caeful not to grind into the housing, a small nick shouldn't hurt but best not to nick it at all.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:50 am ]
Post subject: 
To get the outer ring out I have 3/8" bolt with a big thick washer tack welded to the head.
The washer just fits inside the bearing ring.
I put 6 or 8 good MIG tack welds in there, then sit an 850 diff drive flange yoke over it. Fit a flat washer and nut, and wind it out.
When done, I cut the old ring off with the angle grinder ready for next time.

* Another easy way to remove that old bearing journal off the shaft without removal of shaft is use an angle grinder to grind a nice flat on it. Go as close as you dare to the shaft, then hit it with a hammer and cold chisel to split or stretch it. It'll fall off.

<edit> GT m, I have no trouble holding that gear in the vice to stand 150lb/ft undo torque. But usually I don't bother unless I'm changing the big ball bearing- I use the last method I said in `*" above.
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
a piece of 50mm x 25mm RHS about a foot long will do,,, cut a slot in the 50 side just big enough for the shaft,,, drill a hole in the opposit side & weld a big nut onto it,,, then slip the RHS over the bearing & lock into the shaft & wind the bolt in through the nut till it engages the shaft, & simply keep winding,,, it will pull it off , un-harmed, cage & rollers & all,,, no damage, quick as a wink & easy-peasy

:-)

I can take a pick of my tool if you didn`t understand what i just typed

But maybe you`d all get jealous/envious at the size & quality of my tool :-)

:-)
Author:  sausage27 [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Its all good guys i managed to get it off, quite easy when i think about it.
I simply grinded one end of my flywheel puller so that it fitted in the gap required.
But i now have another question to ask you all.
What are the next steps i must proceed in to dismantle the gearbox.
I have the laygear all off and the diff and all the speedo drive components on the other side.

Cheers
Sav
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Next step is put it in 1st and 4th gears together to lock the mainshaft, then undo the pinion nut which is also 150ft/lb torque.
You will need to refit the laygear and shaft for this to work.
Author:  sausage27 [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
I thought that this would be the next step drmini and i did in fact fit the laygears in place and locked the gearbox but what type of socket do you need to remove the nut, i'm refering to the pinion nut because i have already removed the nut on the first motion shaft.
Is there another tool that i can use instead of a socket and wrench.

Cheers
Sav
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
You need a 1-1/2" deep socket.
Forget any other tool(except a 1-1/2" ring spanner) at 150 ft/lb torque, you would just bugger the nut when it slips off it.
Author:  Drexxle [ Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
I fit that outrigger bearing last thing after assembly. With the plastic cage they are very fragile.


can you still get the metal cage outrigger bearings, i have a few left in a box that ive kept. the plastic ones seem to drop the bearings out quite easily.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have not seen a new metal caged one for years.
RHP went to plastic cages, it's cheaper. Same with the mainshaft bearing. Maybe the fact that the Japs own them now had something to do with it.
Author:  mini_mad_matt [ Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just a word of warning for people thinking of grinding a slot across the width of the bearing and using a chisel to split it open.

Ensure the slot goes the full width of the bearing or as close to as possible. I was a bit careless with the slot when doing a ford courier box, and finished the slot a bit before the inside edge. So when i tried to split it, i just chipped of a chunk of metal beside the slot which flew into my finger at high speed. Now my finger bone has a big lump.
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