Just trying to finish the wiring on my Van *1970 mini k* and am trying to figure out the best place to take power from. I dont want to run an extra wire as my home made loom is complicated enough as it is, but I have the original wires going to the tail end. Is the fuel gauge senser wire live? I think it is but not 100% sure if so then im guessing this would be the best wire to piggyback from given its location?
cheers miki.

It is and it isn't. One of the two wires has 10 volts on it, but its not for using for anything other than instruments. It comes from a controlled and low current source (the 10 volt voltage reg).

You will need one of those spare wires in the loom to tap onto the switched fuse. One fuse is on 24/7, the other switches on when you turn on the ignition. This is the one to use.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Short answer for you miki.

Sorry but you'll need to run extra wires. In the standard Cooper S set up, it is a white wire which is the live supply to the coil.

Trust this helps.

mmm bugger Its all so neat but buggered if I want to run a single wire along the floor and I cant say im keen to pull my roof lining off to add a wire to the current loom. Having said that is the head lining that hard to get on/out and back in again? Thanks for the awnsers by the way, might not be the awnser I wanted but its nice to have help anyway

I have seen the wires run under the floor, under the cover that has the battery cable and brake pipe. I have to say that I'm not super keen on this myself, but it might be an option for you.

Regarding the headlining, if it is the orginal one and to completely remove it, you'll need to take the windscreen out, but if all you want to do is run the fuel pump wire, you shoul be able to pull the passenger's side door rubber (assuming that you have run your loom as per original) away and carefully peel back the lining. You'll need good quality contact adhesive to put it back.

Also be carful about where exactly you put your electric pump. Some like to be below the level of the bottom of the fuel tank and being a van, it's already slung low. Just check it's instructions.

LOL I love your optamisim! I pulled the pump out of the clubman racer, there were actually 2 one at the back end under the tank and one on the bulkhead/firewall in the engine bay. Far as I know they are just common facet pumps and do like to push not suck so good point on the height of the tank! I think I might put the second one in for the sake of it as well.

I do have a question though! The PO had 2 pumps, 5/16 hose and a fuel regulator *sounds good so far eh* but what struck me as odd was he had 2x filters in (one after tank before first pump and one after second pump before carb) BUT and this is the odd bit.. they look generic and the ends of them both look around 1/4" *tiny* Doesnt having filters with restricted flow defeat the efforts of trying to get enough petrol to the carb?
PS* I am assuming I could check if its starving by running the engine @ high rpm and seeing if the last filter is emptying faster than it refills, or the float bowl will do that? and it will splutter ?

i think for safety(and a requirement i think) you need some sort of shut off/safetydevice like a tachometric relay which will shut off in the event of an accident.

It works by requiring a pulse off the coil to keep the relay open. No pulse and it shuts off killing power to pump or in your case pumps!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

Miki, yeah, that's one way of testing the fuel flow, but there are others.

Regarding the flow rate through fuel filters, I have not tested them, but a friend has. The standard Ryco ones that were fitted on the Leyland Minis flow pretty poor as do the glamorus ones that are in glass (and I think 'servicable'). The one that he found actually flowed best (and still actualled filtered) was a Ryco one that the fit the the Ford F150 (sorry, I don't have any more detail than that).

Sorry, I thought that you were using a new pump for some reason.

As far as I know there is no requirement (or real need) for an automatic cut off on a low pressure fuel pump.

Yes, I've never found one on any Cooper S or Clubman GT, in fact the fuel pumps are NOT even fused, because you don't want the car to stop without warning.

Ok i maybe and more than likely am wrong but hey!

I fitted one for peace of mind if nothing else! Last thing you want is fuel going everywhere after you have had a prang! Lot harder to repair a completely burnt out shell than a front end prang!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

F150 Ford fuel filter, excellent now I have a to/do list for tommorow! cheers for the help.

If you prang it the pump will usually stop due to other electrical damage. But even with a cut off or even a mechanical pump there is a good chance that you could end up with fuel running out of the tank and all over the ground. It all depends on where the fuel line or pipe breaks in the crash.

not as much as if your pump is still pumping 25gph!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

If the fuel cap is torn off in a crash you may find that the tank will empty quicker from that than with a running fuel pump.