Ok I give up - how on earth do I get the steering tie-rod, upper suspension arm and lower suspension arm off.

And before anybody says it - I have taken the nuts off!

I've tried smacking them with a hammer but they just don't budge.

I'm trying to take my engine out as part of a complete strip down...

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Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

A ball joint splitter is what you need. If you war NOR in Perth, I can come and show you if you want with my splitter and it will save you $3040+ in buying one. PM me

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

Yeap, a decent quality ball joint splitter is the way to go. Smacking the tops of the arms or the threaded ends of the ball joints might get the job done but it also does a lot of damage.

you need two hammers. hit the ball joints at the same time from either side. acouple of good hits and the will drop. DO NOT HIT THEM ON TOP OF THE NUT

I find that hitting the eye of a balljoint or tie rod end with one or two hammers is like lightening !!!! It never strikes the same place twice.

Just go to Repco and get a scissor type splitter - $35 and no effort what so ever.

Mike

If you are un-sure what they look like, this is one -

I always say it...grease the splitters thread first with a bit of moly grease...or you'll be taking it back...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

If it breaks take it back, it's the only way suppliers find out what sh!t they are selling.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Any cheap hints for the CV joints?

Or will a couple of screwdrivers or tyre levers get them out of the gearbox?

_________________
Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

What sort ??????

Assuming they are pots joints into the gearbox then they are just held in by an expanding ring clip arrangement. Once the top ball joint is dropped then you can get behind the pot joint with a good drift instrument and give the drift a whack with a good heavy hammer.

It should just pop out. Then repeat for the other side.

A word to the wise first though. If the gearbox is full of oil then its going to be all over the floor as soon as the pot joint is out.

Now if you are taking out the motor - there is a less messy alternative. once the top ball joint is dropped, undo the rubber boot retaining wire/clip and the pot joint will come apart. As soon as the cage leaves the steel cup the large ball bearings will start to fall on the floor. Make sure you gather them all.

There is no oil mess doing it ths way.

Mike

Just for info,

If you have inboard pot joints you can take the engine out without undoing the suspension, How I always do it.

Lift the engine a few inches with the hoist, move it to one side and remove opposite joint. Then move engine to other side and remove second joint. Not that tricky and less effort than messing with the suspension.

If you don't want to go that far just undo the top arm and swing the whole hub outboard, it will give enough room to dissengage the pot joints...

Went down to REPCO and bought splitter for $23.99, yep they have a special on all tools at the moment...

Got home, straight to the shed, splitter on....and off the ball joint comes

But OMG...does it make a bang when it comes off!

It was a case of arms stretched out full, tighten the bolt on the splitter, head back further, head back further, bang...

I'd guess they are all corroded on.

Need to remove all as I'm doing a bare shell up rebuild. Well not so much of a rebuild but more of a bare shell up weapon of choice.

All good advice from all - cheers.

_________________
Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

Amazing isn't it...if you never had to use a pair of hammers, you would wonder what all the fuss was about...

God bless the chinese and their marvellous little hands for churning these splitters out so cheap...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I have been successfully using a hammer on ball joints for about 30 years. I finally weakened and got a proper tool.
It has sat in the toolbox for about six months and this week I finally got a chance to use it.
Remembering Micks advise about greasing the thread I slapped some LMM on it and went for the first balljoint. Wow! Piss easy! I wondered why I hadn't discovered this sooner. Go to the other side... Bang and the splitter has split.
Grab the hammer and continue as normal.

It's under warranty, take back.
The balljoint is supposed to split, not the tool...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.