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Clutch Master
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58592		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  gafmo [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Clutch Master
The wifes daily drive is at it once again. Clutch peddle is on the floor. it does change gears but wouldn't last night. I have a old tin which I have honed nicely and put a new kit in it. Put in after much disgracefully words but that went to the floor and stayed thier, Like the spring wasn't doing anything. So I'v put the old one back in and bleed the system and its back to where it was, just off the floor.
Two questions really.
Why would it just be off the floor
and the tin one I lubed (brake fluid) the new kit and bore but why would the piston be sticking :roll:
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Is the pedal shaft sticking?
Author:  gafmo [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Morris 1100 wrote:
Is the pedal shaft sticking?


Cheers Morris...no nothing like that. Master cylinder Pushrod is pulled down by the spring in the peddle box. Its more like the spring is not strong enough to push the piston down. Now I did do doth a clutch and Brake master at the same time but maybe I got the springs mixed up, but they did feel the same by finger pressure. And yes I did purchase the repair kits at the same time but marked them while at the counter at KC's. As this is the the clutch and being .75 and the brake being .7 I can't seeing the kit being the trouble here holding the piston back
:roll:
Author:  64cooper [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Had the same problem once and it turned out to be a fleck of engine enamel that occassionally blocked the steel pipe from the master to the slave cylinder hose where they are joined together. Pedal down, stays down because the hydraulic fluid couldn't pass back to the master :x
Author:  feralsprint [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
It could be the spring on the pedal, if its not sitting on the floor with the old master and the clutch was working annd is sitting on the floor with the rebuilt one the new master is not working, if the pedal spring is broken it is only the clutch itself that is causing the pedal to lift at all and if the new mater wouldn't bleed out and pump fluid you are relying on the return spring on the pedal and if the pedal is binding on the shaft or the spring is broken it will stay on the floor

Just my guess mate but sounds like your new rebuilt cylinder is a dud and if it is you should free up the pedal anyway
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
When the clutch hose blocked up on my Cooper S the pedal would still return. It should return even without a cylinder fitted.
Author:  gafmo [ Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Spring on the pedle is fine...its more like the spring in the master. Since I have taken the tin master off the piston still hasn't returned. Ill pull it apart and have another look at it
Author:  gafmo [ Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well I think I have found the problem. I pulled the honed tin master apart and flipped over the bottom seal and put it back together again. Piston now returns :wink:. now going to put it back in and see if it works for me
Author:  gafmo [ Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Looks like the tin can has a score up the cylinder some where :twisted:
well at least it only takes me 20 minutes to swap everything over and bleed the system now :lol:
Author:  encho [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 5:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
had the same prob turned out to be that the supplier had given me the wrong seal kit.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gaf, why not pick a tin can one and get it sleeved with SS or brass... it will then way outlast all these new ones. :wink:
Author:  goodie [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
G'day Gaf, i think the Doc's on the money , i had trouble with mine a while back, the bore looked good to me from what i could see ,but after 2 kit's it still wasn't right, turned out it had a score halfway down the bore so i pulled it apart again and had it stainless sleeved, haven't had a problem with it since, cost about $60 from memory.

Colin.
Author:  gafmo [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
encho wrote:
had the same prob turned out to be that the supplier had given me the wrong seal kit.


anything is possible but I do know thier was a score what I thought was below the piston area. but will try and measure both sets of kits I have (yes I got a kit for clutch and brake at the same time but I wrote on the packet while i was their infront of the sales person) .where would I get sleeves from and who would put them in, as I may aswell do both at the same time :wink:
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Take it to a GOOD brake service shop. Better Brakes, B&R Brakes.
Not Midas etc.
Author:  gafmo [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have a palace in mind and I know they are a little more expensive than some but they are a specialist is their and questions I should ask to ensure I know what they are doing is correct and not waisting my money..And which is better S/S, brass or other
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